Yoshio Kubo Men’s Spring 2017 Collection

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More subdued, definitely. Boring? Think again. Yoshio Kubo introduces his 2017 spring collection three months before Tokyo’s Fashion Week. And in keeping with his new no-fuss-no-muss ideology, the Japanese designer also set the runway adjacent to the city’s rugby stadium.

Accompanying the cheers and banter from the stands was Kubo’s live percussionist. The models made their way down the minimalist runway.

Yoshio Kubo is known for a more theatrical, avant-garde runway show. Yet, this collection aired a simpler silhouette. Streamlined collarless coats matched slightly harem dress pants. A satin bomber jacket with hawk motifs was paired with loose-fitting trousers, matching the jacket’s sheen. A bright yellow, hooded trench introduced a pop of color to the collection. A vibrant orange and black pattern took the form of tees and oversized shorts.

Woven fringe applique updated an otherwise simple sweatshirt and tee. Each piece was designed with a subtle, yet entirely innovative twist. You could genuinely see Kubo reign in his theatrical tendencies and avant-garde mentality in one of his most ready-to-wear collections yet.

“I think I had been doing well [at designing clothes] with a lot of prints and that were flashy, but in order to put more of myself out there I started thinking maybe I should make a different kind of clothes,” Kubo tells WWD.

The designer continues, “So maybe people will think this collection is more simple, but I was thinking from the beginning about [incorporating] interesting details and I started from that concept.”

Photos by Yukie Miyazak via WWD

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