Coast FIFO miner creates his own men’s gym wear brand

One coal miner was told he would no longer have a steady income of 17 years in less than 3 years. Craig Holzigal was faced with the challenge of looking for a new career, but  he and his brother, Matt Holzigal, suddenly had a bright idea that they hope will become successful as their sole focus.

The duo created Smashing Fibres, a men’s gym and streetwear apparel label, which will be soon launch on Jan. 5th, three years after Craig Holzigal received the unfortunate news. Holzigal commented:

“It was a big, big shock and I still have moments where I struggle to fathom (what happened). I was there for 17 years, not just 2, so it wasn’t an easy transition. Going from a secure income that you know will stop is hard. But going down this road is exciting.”

The duo considered several business ideas before they decided to settle on a clothing brand, which they say can fill a void in the market. The past 12 months the brothers have consistently been designing, planning, testing and setting up their business.

“We’d always spoken about doing something together for years, we just didn’t know what,” Matt said.

“And we ended up doing research without knowing it. We’d look at what males were wearing in the gym and it was either high-vis stuff straight from work or not knowing what to wear.

“The women’s range is massive, but males all over the shop,” he said.

The name of their brand is rooted in their youth when they would say, “let’s go smash some fibres,” which is equivalent to saying let’s hit the gym or pump some iron.

“We were very picky with how we wanted the product to feel and we sent a fair few products back,” Matt said.

Now seven products including tees, singlets and shorts will be available to the public on Jan. 5, and the brothers say the products are easily worn in the gym or even on a casual day going to a coffee shop.

“It gives guys a versatile product that will last. It is a nice clean design that you could throw on with a pair of jeans and wear to the pub,” according to Matt.

Drake’s collection celebrates anniversary in dashing way

Drake’s, like most British menswear brands, greatly appreciates its heritage. While the brand is decades younger than other menswear brands, it still has enough rich history behind the label. They perfectly released a capsule collection of accessories in celebration of its milestone 40th anniversary.

This year, the house has already released a range of suits and outwear that is set to helpcomplete a man’s wardrobe. The capsule collection is a return to the brand’s roots: it has an array of ties, pocket squares and scarves (all starting around $85), and all have modern takes on ancient prints such as paisley, floral medallions and birds all in the brand’s original heavy silk twill and fine wool.

Robb Report sat down with creative director Michael Hill to discuss the capsule collection and the future of the brand. Here are the vital takeaways.

Robb Report: What is your favorite part of the Anniversary Collection?

Michael Hill: The ties. I absolutely love them, and they really resonate with me because they were the first thing that I saw the brand doing when I discovered Drake’s years ago. We worked really hard to get that cloth with the same kind of luster that the vintage ties have, and were able to go back into our archives to find the heavy silk twill that the ties were made of. I love their little neat patterns—the simple design makes them very easy to wear and they work very well with tweed and oxfords.

RR: How do you think the company has evolved over the past four decades?

Hill: Our roots are very much in manufacturing and working with other brands, and we still do a lot of that. We are committed to being a maker, no question. When I joined the brand seven years ago we started rethinking things, we really wanted to meet our customer on our own terms, and go beyond accessories and tailoring. We’ve been very careful to stick to the same handwriting and philosophy that we learned under [founder] Michael Drake, but it is important to stay fresh. We’ve really tried to balance tradition and innovation.

RR: Where do you see Drake’s going over the next 40 years?

Hill: We don’t really have a grand plan—our growth has been very instinctive so far. That said, I don’t think there is much in terms of product that we can add, now that we’ve launched the ready-to-wear collection. I do think there is more room for us to experiment with shoes and outerwear though, and our spring collection is going to be a really great example of that. But we want to do things that are absolutely right for us—it needs to be meaningful and special for the brand.

Ilaria Urbinati gives dressing tips for dapper men

The old saying that behind every strong man is a strong woman holds true in this situation. For red carpet walkers such as Bradley Cooper, Donald Glover and Armie Hammer, the woman behind them is not their significant others but celebrity stylist Ilaria Urbinati.

The A-list stylist has quite the clientele, and this holiday season she has decided to share some insightful tips courtesy of W magazine. She has done her best to give great advice to those men out there who want to look their best during the holidays. Urbinati’s best piece of advice is to have fun, and when in doubt you “can’t go wrong with a little fair isle.”

W: Biggest difference between styling women vs men?

Urbinati: The politics of dressing men couldn’t be more different than those of women where you’re always just chasing that “one” sample dress. With men, it’s more about working within the parameters of men’s style rules while trying to break out of them just the right amount.

W: Best advice for men dressing for a holiday party?

Urbinati: You can’t go wrong with a little fair isle as long as it fits right. Do go easy on the plaid, though it’s great under a suit. Don’t be afraid of a little color. Do embrace velvet. Do go hard on the tweeds, cashmeres, and herringbones. Don’t forget, as goes for the rest of the year, it’s all about the fit.

 

W: Most flattering silhouette on a man?

Urbinati: A slim two button peak or notch lapel suit will never be wrong. A nice shoulder doesn’t hurt especially for winter. Unlined is great in the summer

 

W: Ideal men’s holiday party outfit?

Urbinati: For black tie, a velvet suit is gorgeous. For a more casual affair, a wool or tweed suit with a Christmas sweater or plaid shirt nails it.

 

W: Best men’s accessories to pair with a party look?

Urbinati: I’m really into men’s jewelry right now. David Yurman makes my favorite men’s gold chains and gold rings. The bee or lion rings are my faves.

Fashion show provides support in eastern Congo

A handful of designers presented the first fashion show in several years to be held in the eastern Congo city of Beni two weeks ago. The fashion show was an attempt to give the residents something positive in light of all the attacks committed by Allied Democratic Forces (ADF) rebels and other armed groups who have killed thousands over the past three years.

One designer who got to show off her work was a Congolese designer named Miki Sikabwe who has been shown in Rwanda, Burundi and Kenya but never in her home state.

“I am happy to be exhibiting my necklaces and clothes made with local products here in Beni and I believe this will give hope to the people here,” Sikabwe said, also showing off men’s clothing made from bright African wax prints.

She, alongside thousands of others in eastern Congo, have wondered when the violence will stop. Earlier this month, ADF members attacked the local United Nations mission, killing 15 Tanzanian keepers and an additional 5 Congolese soldiers, making it the single deadliest attack on a UN peacekeeping mission in over 25 years.

Beni’s fashion week was canceled back in 2014 after rebel attacks began with 1,000 deaths within a couple of months. Mayor Nyonyi Bwanakawa said he believes the city is becoming safer.

“We would like to show the world that in Beni, and in northeast Congo, there is life and tourists can come here,” he said. Beni is near the bottom of Mount Ruwenzori, which is surrounded by the well-known Virunga National Park.

At the event, nearly 600 people gathered in a nightclub for the fashion show that featured colored loincloths, masks and traditional materials turned into modern styles. Roselyne Mbiya was the lead designer of the show, using Congolese fabrics alongside some floral designs and even lace. She has stated that some of the show’s proceeds will be donated to women who have been raped by ADF rebels, also stating that these women need to feel like they are still loved and cared about by society.

Luxury brands step up their game with custom clothes

In recent news, a handful of luxury brands have been adding a new tool to their clothing, which is allowing customers to personalize their recent purchases. Brands such as Polo Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Burberry, Gucci and Louis Vuitton are taking part in the new idea with more brands to follow in the near future.

At the new Polo store in London, they have a whole floor dedicated to customization involving items like embroidered patches and monogrammed blazers. Similar ideas are occurring at other luxury stores. At Tommy Hilfiger, shoppers can customize any item in the store. At Burberry, they make it possible to monogram a scarf. Gucci lets you apply designs to jackets. Louis Vuitton allows customers to initial luggage.

According to a research study done by Deloitte, one out of three consumers were interested in personalized products, and 71 percent of them were ready to pay a premium for the addition. Around 15 percent of the survey takers were willing to pay a 40 percent increase in price for such customization.

Tammy Smulders, global managing director of Havas LuxHub (the media group’s division dedicated to fashion, luxury and lifestyle business), commented on specialization:

“Luxury consumers are increasingly expecting products that feel special and distinctive to them, such as monogrammed iPhone cases from Chaos Fashion. Equally, brands are using technology and data to segment their customers and provide the right kinds of products, services and brand communication.”

Technology will continue to drive this trend, according to José Neves, founder and CEO of online retailer Farfetch:

“Customization will be the next revolution in luxury. We wanted to find a way of offering luxury and bespoke products to an audience that’s increasingly knowledgeable about style and quality.”

Deloitte’s research shows that the labels who don’t end up using such elements risk losing revenue and customer loyalty. “Brands are transforming how they interact with current and future customers to provide personalized brand experiences that make people feel special,” says Smulders.

Luxury brands are being forced to take notice of the number of consumers willing to spend extra money to customize clothes, and they must begin to explore the on-demand aspect of personalization.

TAG Heuer collaborates with graffiti artist Alec Monopoly

This year, an interesting event occurred between a Swiss watchmaker company and an underground L.A. guerrilla artist. TAG Heuer and Alec Monopoly recently collaborated in an interesting event.

Alec Monopoly is a graffiti artist best known for his murals, gallery installations and street art quite frequently featuring the monopoly man from the Hasbro game Monopoly.  Alec is also known for wearing a top hat himself and also keeps his face hidden in order to hide is identity. Alec Monopoly uses his art to attack Wall street and highlight the corruption of the financial world, and he has been doing so since 2008. Monopoly puts his monopoly man in almost every situation while adding an array of vibrant colors. He had the chance to work with the Swiss watch giant after an unusual encounter in France.

“I was in the south of France working in my studio at [designer] Philipp Plein’s house when Mr. Biver [Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of TAG Heuer] came over. He has a house there, and he came over, and we just ended up talking about art. And then we spoke about doing a collaboration.”

Monopoly was impressed with Biver’s insight into the watch world and his deep knowledge of art, technology and culture. “This guy is brilliant. He’s like the Steve Jobs of the watch world,” he said.

?#MiamiArtbasel ? #History ?

A post shared by Alec Monopoly (@alecmonopoly) on

For TAG, it was a chance for the brand to expand into the art world. the company does say that they take pride in their ability to maintain ties in the luxury part of the world and also in sports, art and entertainment. While most of the athletes get the spotlight in terms of brand visibility, TAG gave Monopoly his own spotlight when they added him to their roster of artists. For Alec Monopoly, this means he gets a series of TAG Heuer-sponsored installations and an official title in the company: Art Provocateur.

“I’m in a 360-degree partnership with TAG Heuer,” said Monopoly of their work together. “I’m a brand ambassador, an art director, and an artist. It’s like we’re married.”

Hugo Boss is redefining suits

Last February, Hugo Boss held its first ever menswear show since 2008. This is a sign that the label, which is mostly known for its suits, is looking for a way to redefine the brand in the menswear section. Hugo Boss will now be a regular during fashion weeks.

The brand’s move also hints at the change menswear as a whole has undergone over the past years. The change is that most millennials are not wearing suit as much as the eras before them. They opt for a more casual look everyday with khakis at work.

With the current men staying away from most suits, menswear brands have had to come up with clever strategies to stay on top of the fashion world, and no other brand has done a better job so far than Ingo Wilts’ new Hugo Boss. Wilts was in Dubai last month for the reopening of the Hugo Boss store at Mall of the Emirates. He spent some time talking to Khaleej Times in a brief interview. Here are the key takeaways:

How has Hugo Boss managed to stay on top of its fashion game for so long?

Wilts: We are known worldwide for our tailoring DNA and the suit is our key product. Hence, we are constantly working on the development, redefining and modernising our products to offer timeless modern pieces to fulfill our customer’s needs. With our fashion show collections, we additionally show our more fashion-forward fashion expertise.

Hugo Boss is all about the suit, but perhaps the modern man is not wearing the suit as much as he used to. How has this affected your label?

Wilts: Boss is about more than the perfect suit. We’ve immersed ourselves to taking a new approach to design, with a more fashion-forward result to fulfill customer needs. The suit will always remain a key product for us, but it is cut and styled in a modern way. Along with the suit, our product range also includes sophisticated casual looks that can easily be combined with our business and evening wear to provide solutions for all wearing occasions.

How have you reinvented the suit to make it fit into the workplace of now?

Wilts: We see a general trend towards athleisure and have also adapted the Boss codes of tailoring and fine quality to a very relaxed way in many pieces of our collections. Suiting has never been so relaxed with oversized or double breasted suits styled with sneakers and a cashmere sweater instead of a shirt and tie.

Men catching up to women in online fashion shopping

Women are considered to be very active online shoppers, but as of late, it seems that men are slowly catching up and creating competition. Men are already taking the lead in footwear and accessories.

According to Rashi Vasudev, vice president at Flipkart, men’s footwear was the number one category expected to grow the fastest over the course of the next two years with an online penetration up to 18 percent, while clothing will see an increase of 5-6 percent:

“Over the years, we are seeing the otherwise active ecom shopper, who is male, foraying more and more into fashion online. Market size of both men’s and women’s clothing online is at neck and neck now. However, in terms of footwear and accessories, men’s market online is far ahead.”

A report released by Boston Consulting Group stated that between 55 and 60 million consumers are currently buying fashion products online, and the market is getting even bigger. Men’s fashion is expected to get another boost by this new growth.

According to Kabir Mehra, co-founder of Herringbone & Sui (a label that creates made-to-measure suits and Indian formal wear), there will be an increase in new portal introducing more menswear to the growing segment of consumers. This will become a trend with more men opting to shop online rather than at brick and mortar stores:

“As a trend men are more likely to shop on occasions, as opposed to indulging in the activity as leisure. They are also shoppers of habit and tend to research thoroughly on any expenditure they make when it comes to luxury ensembles. Given this, the online landscape has drastically changed.”

Women also tend to shop for their partners or male family members online, since it’s much easier and more convenient to shop this way rather than taking them to a store.

“They can simply share link of what they think is a good purchase and all the men need to do is check this on their phones, thereby making the process quicker,” added Samarth Hegde, the other co-founder of Herringbone & Sui.

Arun sirdeshmukh, head of Amazon Fashion says that they have witnessed almost 100 percent growth in the menswear category from 2015 to 2017.

“With the growing appetite for up-to-date trends, men are getting increasingly fashion forward,” he said.

Men will wear all black to Golden Globes

There has been news that several prominent male performers, such as Dwayne The Rock Johnson, will be joining the women-led protest against sexual misconduct that has been showing up recently in news, especially in Hollywood. The men plan to show support by wearing all black to the 2018 Golden Globe Awards ceremony in Los Angeles on Jan. 7.

Entertainment Weekly reported, celebrity stylist Ilaria Urbinati wrote on Instagram that all of her clients would be wearing the all black attire this year:

“Because everyone keeps asking me… YES, the men WILL be standing in solidarity with women on this wearing-all-black movement to protest against gender inequality at this year’s Golden Globes. At least ALL MY GUYS will be. Safe to say this may not be the right time to choose to be the odd man out here… just sayin…”

Urbinati is the stylist for prominent male stars such as Tom Hiddleston, Garret Hedlund, Armie Hammer and many others– even The Rock. Stylist Michael Fisher, who dresses Hugh Jackman and Sam Rockwell, told Hollywood Reporter that men wearing black is “going to be an inevitable thing out of solidarity. I think the majority of men are going go safe in a black suit with a white shirt so no one’s going to look the odd man out.”

While most actors, critics and fans are embracing the stand on both sides, the movement has had its criticism.  Rose McGowan put out a hostile tweet towards Streep and other actors on Dec. 17 which has now been deleted.

“Actresses, like Meryl Streep, who happily worked for The Pig Monster, are wearing black @GoldenGlobes in a silent protest,” she wrote. “YOUR SILENCE is THE problem. You’ll accept a fake award breathlessly & affect no real change. I despise your hypocrisy.” She added, “Maybe you should all wear Marchesa.”

Marchesa is the brand run and designed by Georgina Chapman, former spouse of producer Harvey Weinstein.

McGowan deleted her tweet and later sent out another twitter message.

“The Marchesa line was beneath me and I’m sorry for that,” she later wrote. “There is no map for this road I’m on, I will fuck up. Peace be with you, go with Goddess.”

Reebok gives retro shoe a makeover

Reebok is a brand that relies heavily on their classic outwear such as the original Classics shoes, and this time around, Reebok has managed to push a new shoe into the mainstream fashion world once again. This shoe is none other than their iconic Reebok Workout.

The newly remodeled version of the Workout is made out of an ultraknit construction. The shoe, now named Workout Clean Ultraknit, also features an EVA midsole, rubber outsole for more traction and the label’s signature branding to the side. It is suitable to become your new workout shoe. The lighter construction of the shoe is better suited for circuits with additional ventilation, but the retro look fits nicely with any outfit.

Reebok was able to get Tokyo illustrator Rimo to create the artwork for the relaunched campaign. The shoes can be purchased at Reebok.co.uk and are currently going for around $150 USD.

Japanese fashion ends the year right

With the holidays passing, the Japanese fashion industry has its own separate reason to celebrate. With the year coming to a close, Japan had a chance to reveal amazing home-grown talent locally at one of the most prestigious ceremonies.

The Mainichi Fashion Grand Prix was first introduced back in 1963 to shine light on excellent local fashion brands and has, in recent years, become a way to show consumers who is up and coming and who to keep an eye on. The ceremony, which took place on Nov. 30th this year, awarded the most prestigious Grand Prix honor to the label Hyke, while the Newcomer Award went to an up and coming brand called Yuima Nakazato.

Hyke is a brand which is designed by a husband and wife duo. Hideaki Yoshihara and Yukiko Ode are the co-owners of the brand which was established four years ago. Hyke was not their first brand– many longtime fashion aficionados can trace the duo back to their previous label “Green” which ran from 1998 to 2009.

Hyke is a minimalist brand that entails obsession with small details. The first few seasons the brand came out with were flooded with white and military green, with few to no dazzling pieces. The newest collection has a couple of pieces with fringes or a few extra buttons, but the whole aesthetic of the brand stays the same. The brand is deeply rooted in menswear tailoring and long silhouettes.

The Newcomer Award winner, Nakazato, has a very different train of thought when it comes to fashion. His aesthetic is inspired by new technology. His designs are less worried about weareablity and more about testing the murky relationship between advanced technology and fashion.

Yuima Nakazato is a graduate of the royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp master’s program. Nakazato first received accolades for designing leather boots that can be unzipped into completely flat parts. After a couple of jobs in costume design, he was asked to be a guest designer by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris in 2016. Nakazato became the second Japanese to present on the Haute Couture schedule, and he impressed with a seamless piece constructed of thousands of “units” which were printed on holographic film.

While neither of the Japanese companies are household names yet, both of the labels’ futures seem bright and will undoubtedly bring more exciting content that will reach the entire fashion world.

Designer John Varvatos says music and fashion allow him to remain wild

New York-based menswear designer John Varvatos is known for having a brand that carries rock’n’roll inspired collections and rebellious footwear. During a recent interview with star2.com, the designer opened up about many things, including how music and fashion allow him to remain “wild at heart.”

The following are quotes from interviews with the Los Angeles Times and the Tribune News Service:

“I saw early on music artists were shopping with us and contacting us about clothes and photo shoots and tours,” Varvatos says.

“And I thought, ‘That’s pretty amazing.’ Then you get people who were icons when you were growing up who want to wear your clothes or are already buying your clothes someplace. And you’re like, ‘Oh my god, Jimmy Page is buying my clothes.’ Or Alice Cooper or Iggy Pop or whoever it was at the time.”

“At this time in the world, we need people who have voices,” he says.

“We need people that aren’t meek and sit back, but they want to create change out there. They don’t want to put up with the that’s going on. Even in the music industry, I believe it’s time for those rebels again – the ones that have a voice that isn’t just a fun pop song.”

Varvatos is currently 63 years old and has just recently opened up a new Westfield Century City store in Los Angeles. This store will be added to the list of stores in California such as in Hollywood, Malibu, Costa Mesa, and San Diego. Varvatos also raises money for Stuart House, a foundation of the Rape Treatment Center at Santa Monica-UCLA Medical Center.

Cats Eye releases party collection for men

Recently, Cats Eye has launched a new and exciting collection which is their attempt to keep up with men’s contemporary fashion. Cats Eye’s new collection features minimalist vests, prince coats and many more pieces that help spice up evening and party wear.

The new collection even brings tailoring into effect while the winter collection for men has an included update on palette, patterns and hemlines.

Customers who shop online at www.catseye.com.bd will be able to get exclusive deals and discounts throughout the winter time.

Long time stylist Nabila creates something for men

Nabila, who is known for her beauty and haircare industry, has decided to step out of her comfort zone and create something for men. The woman who is known for her transformative celebrity stylist skills, having created some life changing looks and new images for top celebrities, and also having her own salon named after her in Pakistan, now has branched out to the opposite sex in hopes to recreate her success.

Nabila launched an exclusive styling and grooming salon for men which goes by the name of NGents in Gulberg, Lahore a while back, and it has quickly gained success. The salon itself is what sets it apart from others. The interior of the salon appears to be lush and laden, filled with modern furniture and salon accessories along with marbled and tiled floor and walls. Sprinkled along the walls are eye catching portraits and mugshots of iconic style legends.

The salon pays close attention to detail, with the inside being filled to the brim with handcrafted leather furnishings, chocolate brown and oxblood interiors and barber chairs alongside state of the art hydraulic backwash. The salon even includes an exotic kitchen that serves an array of snacks from a wood fired pizza to a freshly brewed espresso.

Thieves make off with $1 million in dresses.

Just recently, a couple of thieves have broken into the Holt Miami store in Dania Beach by smashing through the wall of an adjacent building, turning off the alarm and even being able to disable the security cameras.

The thieves went straight for the finished and most expensive dresses in the store. They stole around 4,000 to 5,000 dresses, which is said to be worth up to $1 million, and loaded them into a white box truck, according to the Broward Sheriff’s Office.

The thieves stole the dresses on a Friday night but it was not discovered until Monday, the thieves are said to be still at large.

Holt Miami is a store which is operated by designer Elisea Holt, also operated stores in Dania and Sunny Isles. The brand sells luxury hand-painted dresses, as well as swimwear and other pieces of attire. The dresses regularly sold for several hundred dollars each.

Dania store manager Heather Perez told some investigators that she locked up the store and set the alarm around 6pm that night.

Alongside stealing dresses, the thieves stole pressure cleaning equipment and paint sprayers valued at around $1,600 from U.S Brick and Block Systems, which is a brand that specializes in residential and commercial projects.

Paul Stuart’s Made on Madison Collection is seriously stylish

When winter time comes along, tis the season of layering up and bulking down. With more options to choose from and more clothes to wear at one time, it’s also the time for holidays to come around. And what better Christmas gift than gifting some new attire, especially from the new Paul Stuart’s collection. The new collection is filled with cozy items such as robes (from $445) and pajamas (from $197).

The New York-based company has been around for some time now, since 1938, and has recently just begun to produce a line of luxury loungewear for both men and women. The material used for the collection ranges from cashmere to wool and even has the occasional silk mixed in. the collection is named Made on Madison and what is so unique about the collection

that most of its items are hand-sewn by a team of in-house tailors at Paul Stuart’s New York store on Madison Avenue. You can even schedule an appointment to tour the workshop and watch the tailors work hard to carefully cut patterns and create the brilliant loungewear.

One of the best pieces of the collection has to be the elegant robes. The robes are made with shawl collars and contrast piping, which are able to be used as a dual threat. You can use the robe for cozying up near a fireplace or use it for a night out, pairing it up with a formal jacket. The brand also has created a good cashmere scarf ($348) to pair up with the robe.

Adidas scores a variety of celebrities for its new campaign

While the sports world influences and has one of the biggest effects on culture, Adidas has been the brand who has been keeping up with channeling that influence through their brand. The brand is driven by many creative types; artists, designers, musicians, and more, and have used celebrities of all types for their newest campaign titled, “Calling All Creators”. The new campaign brings creative minds from all different backgrounds together.

The new campaign is held together by some of the biggest influencers in this current year including: James Harden, Lionel Messi, Paul Pogba, Von Miller, Pharrell Williams, Kris Bryant, Carlos Correa, Candace Parker, DeAndre Hopkins, Pusha T, Damian Lillard, Karlie Kloss, David Beckham, Garbiñe Muguruza, Alexander Wang, Aaron Rodgers, PK Subban, Paige Tapp, Chiney Ogwumike, Brandon Ingram, Jeremy Lin, Kristaps Porzingis, Derrick Rose, Tracy McGrady, and Lindsey Horan. altogether, this group of talented creators have come together to make an interesting campaign video and a new load of amazing shoes.

‘Creativity is everything in today’s game. It’s about making a statement. I think what we’re trying to do is leave a mark so the game will never be the same,’ they say.

Men’s fashion in 2018 could get a boost with lustrous details and more sports clothing

With menswear not twisting and turning as much as womenswear, men tend to buy more expensive clothes but less often. For Spring/Summer 2018 there seems to be a couple of new tweaks men can make to their style to add more modernity to their standard pieces.

There are a couple of things that can happen such as going towards soft shell, retro styling, rich pickings, or going sports direct.

For a soft shell look, big brands like Ermenegildo Zegna and Berluti are bringing in airy, lightweight, float-from-the-body jackets and trousers that are very soft fitting. This look can be made up from very simple items like a soft-shoulder blazer with a T-shirt.

Gucci for some time has been producing lavish, high-quality 1970s fashion pieces. Next season is set to include some stylings that Elton John would wear back in the day, and to add to things a host of more brands has been opting to make nostalgic clothing. This year especially, 1950s-style Elvis Presley Hawaiian shirts have been seen constantly on the catwalks of Louis Vuitton, while bowling shirts were also being sprinkled along Prada catwalks. 1980s American gigolo-style long blazers even made a guest appearance on Dries Van Noten.

The past couple of seasons the men’s collections have been pumping out items with discrete lustrous details, brands such as Bottega Veneta has brought back silks for men, while Dolce & Gabbana have also added bullion and heavy-duty hardware sweaters to their collections.

High-tech mountaineering attire has been spotted a lot recently at Parisian label Lanvin with cagoules coming with toggles, zips and cords. Jogging trousers have appeared at Berluti coming with a great sense of elastic, next year can be filled with even more heavily sports related clothes.

Public School drops out of New York Fashion Week

During the recent changes made to the New York Fashion Week’s official schedule, Public School designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow have announced they will skip showcasing their new Fall 2018 collection in February. The designer duo has made the decision to drop out and have already made plans to launch a “new direct-to-consumer concept” this upcoming spring.

This past year, Osborne and Chow have been keeping the entire fashion world full of excitement with their creative and dazzling fashion week. Back in April of 2016, they had a fashion show for Public School collection off-calendar, showing close to menswear and pre-collection schedules in December and June. Public School also combined their men’s and women’s and made a co-ed show for a number of collections.

“The company will focus on refining its own product assortment, delivery cadence and restructuring the organization, including making new hires,” said a spokesperson for the brand in an official statement for Fashionista.

This isn’t the first time Osborne and Chow have thought about new ways to approach fashion weeks as more and more New York brands struggle to find a new way to increase their consumer-facing productions.

Josh Goot and Christine Centenera are launching an anti-fast fashion collection

Josh Goot, owner of Wardrobe.NYC, and Christine Centenera, a designer with a decade-old eponymous collection, have teamed earlier this month to create a collection that was set to try to disrupt the fast fashion dynasty.

Virgil Abloh, Off-White founder and longtime friend of both Goot and Centenera, had the pleasure to interview both of them before his trip to London, where he won British Fashion Council’s Urban Luxe Brand Award while wearing a brand new Wardrobe.NYC suit and shirt.

Below are a couple of questions that Abloh himself personally asked. You can read the full interview at Vogue.com

Virgil Abloh: Talk to me about the moments before settling on the exact structure of Wardrobe.NYC. What informed how you got here?

Josh Goot: There were a few things happening: I was wrestling with the challenges of running my own label. And I was exhausted and I suppose less inspired to stay on the merry-go-round. I was also spending a lot more time in New York, feeling the energy here, seeing the way people work, move, think, and live. And then I was also kind of pondering the mood of the industry. There has been so much talk about a broken model or a changing landscape. I was thinking about how to keep all the good stuff, but do something that makes more sense from a business model point of view.

Virgil Abloh: How did you land on the pre-pack idea?

Christine Centenera: I think we take for granted how often people find it difficult to get dressed in the morning. I think this provides a solution. As for how we landed on the eight pieces, we looked at ourselves; we have active lives, constantly moving and doing different things each day. I need pieces to work hard in my wardrobe and be versatile and of great quality, and I want to know that I’m wearing items that are well made. We got it down to the eight pieces that we think form the basis of a wardrobe that can be worn together as an ensemble or mixed back with fashion pieces. Part of this concept is “less is more,” in a way.

Instagram fashion brand googled more than top designer brands

Google has released its Year in Search 2017 data and has highlighted the top ten most Google-searched brands in 2017. While there were still many of the top names on the list, some including Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Supreme, the fourth most searched fashion brand in the United States was Instagram fashion brand Fashion Nova. The affordable label beat out luxury brands like Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana.

The brand could likely credit its success to some of the biggest names in all different categories sporting the brand, likely influencing their millions of followers. Some names such Cardi B, Nicki Minaj, Amber Rose, and Blac Chyna, have all posted the brand on their own Instagram feed, and even more recently, Toya Wright and Tammy Rivera were also spotted wearing the same dress from Fashion Nova. Most of the items on Fashion Nova’s site are all under the price of $100, making it significantly cheaper than bigger luxury brands.

The brand isn’t completely clean of dirt as it had its fair share of controversy over the past year, the brand was allegedly accused of using size 2 models to promote plus-size clothing.

The full list of fashion brands is as followed:

  1. Gucci
  2. Louis Vuitton
  3. Supreme
  4. Fashion Nova
  5. Chanel
  6. Yves Saint Laurent
  7. Christian Dior
  8. Dolce & Gabbana
  9. Valentino
  10. Moschino

Michael Kors going cruelty free

Michael Kors has recently announced they are becoming cruelty-free. Michael Kors has recently said he plans on going cruelty-free which will kick into full effect by the end of December 2018, with plans already starting to begin now to slowly phase it out.

The American luxury brand, in the past had featured models wearing luxurious fur coats down the runway in the past, has joined the growing list of fashion companies who are looking to alternative methods in creating clothes after coming under severe pressure and criticism from animal rights activists.

“This decision marks a new chapter as our company continues to evolve its use of innovative materials,” said John D. Idol, Michael Kors’ chairman and chief executive, in a statement.

“Due to technological advances in fabrications, we now have the ability to create a luxe aesthetic using non-animal fur,” added designer Michael Kors. “We will showcase these new techniques in our upcoming runway show in February.”

Gucci has been the most recent brand, prior to Michael Kors, to please on dropping fur from its collection back in October, joining other brands such as Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Armani, which have all recently gone fur-free.

With big brands switching to fur-free, there still is a predominant use of fur being used in the collection, according to Fur Information Council of America spokesperson Keith Kaplan. Kaplan adds, “Nearly 70 percent of major designers included fur in their Autumn/Winter 2017 collections.”

“In the pre-Fall 2018 showings currently underway, fur continues to maintain a major presence, because innovative new techniques in fur processing and production allow designers a breadth of creative possibilities unmatched by any other textile,” said Kaplan. “Designers and consumers also recognize the value of fur as a natural and sustainable product, as well as the artisanal craft skills that make each fur piece unique, [which is] especially important as consumers become more aware of the environmental and social costs of mass-produced fast fashion.”

The announcement came soon after animal rights activists interrupted Kors’ speech back in June, where he was giving a speech in a packed theatre at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of art. Over 20 protestors ended up taking the stage and balcony, shouting and playing sounds of animals being killed for fur, which ended up shutting the event down for approximately ten minutes.

Paris extends men’s fashion week to six days in 2018

Paris is now extending its Men’s Fashion Week from five days in January to six days, starting in 2018. The schedule change was made among the increase of big fashion designers leaving the New York show in order to find bigger stages. This year, the menswear shows will start on Tuesday, January 16 adding a numerous amount of new arrivals, and will be ending in January 21, according to the schedule released by French fashion’s governing party, Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

The opening day for Paris Men’s Fashion Week brings will have three new additions, Palomo Spain, Parisian label Nïuku, and GmbH collective. Dunhill London is also set to present its newest collection in Paris this season on the final day of men’s fashion week.

A big missing name is the French capital brand Balenciaga, the brand has decided to skip out on menswear and is going to stage a coed show for both menswear and womenswear in March, during Paris’s womenswear Fashion Week.  Vetements is currently on the way in on the list for Paris Men’s Fashion Week. The label has yet to be currently featured on the official schedule.

Paris Men’s Fashion Week: Provisional schedule

Tuesday, January 16, 2018

17:00 ― Palomo Spain

18:00 ― Nïuku

19:00 ― Namacheko

20:00 ― GmbH

Wednesday, January 17, 2018

10:00 ― Julien David

11:00 ― Off-White

12:00 ― Facetasm

13:30 ― Icosae

14:30 ― Lemaire

15:30 ― Y/Project

16:30 ― Walter Van Beirendonck

18:00 ― Haider Ackermann

19:00 ― OAMC

20:00 ― Valentino

 

Thursday, January 18, 2018

 

10:00 ― AMI Alexandre Mattiussi

11:00 ― Issey Miyake Men

12:30 ― Rick Owens

13:30 ― Angus Chiang

14:30 ― Louis Vuitton

15:30 ― Sean Suen

16:30 ― Boris Bidjan Saberi

17:30 ― Yohji Yamamoto

19:00 ― Dries van Noten

20:00 ― Pigalle Paris

 

Friday, January 19, 2018

 

10:00 ― Junya Watanabe Man

11:00 ― Maison Margiela

12:00 ― Ann Demeulemeester

13:00 ― Juun J.

14:00 ― Acne Studios

15:00 ― Hed Mayner

16:00 ― Cerruti 1881

17:00 ― Comme des Garçons Homme Plus

18:00 ― Alexander McQueen

20:00 ― Berluti

 

Saturday, January 20, 2018

 

10:00 ― Sacai

11:00 ― Etudes

12:00 ― Avoc

13:00 ― Thom Browne

14:00 ― Andrea Crews

15:00 ― Dior Homme

16:00 ― Wooyoungmi

17:00 ― Balmain Homme

18:00 ― Henrik Vibskov

19:00 ― White Mountaineering

20:00 ― Hermès

 

Sunday, January 21, 2018

 

10:00 ― Officine Générale

11:00 ― Lanvin

12:00 ― Agnès b.

13:00 ― Sankuanz

14:00 ― Rynshu

15:00 ― Enfants Riches Déprimés

16:00 ― Paul Smith

17:00 ― Christian Dada

18:00 – Dunhill London

19:00 ― To be confirmed

20:00 ― Kenzo ― AFP-Relaxnews

Stefano Pilati to unveil new exhibition in June

Stefano Pilati has announced he will introduce his new exhibition at the 94th edition of international menswear trade show Pitti Uomo this upcoming June.

The new collection, which is titled “Evolution — Involution — Revolution. Three decades of men’s fashion as seen by Stefano Pilat”, is set to highlight the similar links between fashion and the constantly changing world surrounding it.

The show will be open to the public until October 21 and it is said to be a representative as the third chapter to the three-year program promoted by Florentine Center of Italian fashion, Galleria degli Uffizi and Pitti Immagine. The Italian Ministry of Economic Development and Italian trade agency ICE are also said to be supporting the project with a generous financial contribution.

“For this project focused on men’s fashion, a theme which has been neglected for too long on the Italian and international cultural scenes, we chose Stefano Pilati because he is one of its main protagonists,” said Pitti Discovery Foundation general secretary Lapo Cianchi. “But most of all, we got fascinated by his personal vision of the fashion system: eccentric, dissonant, almost cynical. He has a precise point of view, which reflects the obsessions and considerations of a collector, who is also a designer and someone who deeply loves fashion.”

In the past, the Florentine Center for Italian fashion, Gelleria degli Uffizi and Pitti Immagine presented two exhibitions prio to the new Stefano Pilati show which were, “Karl Largerfeld-Vision of Fashion” and “The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion”, which came out in 2016 and 2017 respectively.

Drake and pink lead men’s fashion for 2017

The Canadian rapper Stone Island cargo pants back in February this year, which lead to a spark in 12,000 searches the following month, according to data from the global fashion search platform Lyst. Drake is now responsible for a 240 percent increase in online searches for ‘cargo pants’ in 2017.

After crunching down the numbers from more than 100 million searches in order to uncover what men wanted to wear in 2017, Lyst has found that outdoor brands were among some of the most searched this year. Patagonia and North Face were among the top five lists of most wanted men’s brand globally.

The increase in pink menswear was also a surprise, with 15,000 more pink items for men on Lyst in 2017 than there were in 2016. There was also a 73 percent increase for more pink searches. Jersey sweatpants made a big bomb as well, coming in with a 104 percent year on year increase in searches. Streetwear brands like Yeezy, Champion, and Supreme were the most popular labels to get the highly searched items.

Streetwear brands alone have become a lot more mainstream, with searches from the top 10 streetwear labels combined together made up 340 percent increase compared to their statistics in 2016. Men’s rompers gained a lot of attention when the launch of ‘RompHim’ romper suit came about on Kickstarter back in May, which fueled a 620 percent increase in searches for similar items over the course of two months.

Gucci teaming up with street-style legend Dapper Dan

Harlem’s tailor Dapper Dan was one of modern menswear’s founding fathers. He has spent most of the ‘80s remixing high-fashion pieces for athletes and celebrities, taking many offers from the likes of Gucci and Louis Vuitton and making something different for them. But now Dapper Dan and Gucci are teaming up and are opening an atelier together.

Dapper Dan’s Boutique (the original) was shut down back in 1992, due to the fact of the issues from his stylish, yet still illegal, tweaking and reshaping of other brand designs. The new Harlem atelier- a 4,700 square foot brownstone, is very different from the original when Dap started designing in the ‘80s. now, he will be making custom, one of a kind designs for clients using Gucci raw materials, fabrics, prints, embroidered patches, and hardware. The space will only be open by appointments starting January 2018.

Dapper Dan was one of the few people back in the ‘80s, he was around before anybody else was around to be able to intersect couture and culture. Back then, this didn’t go over so well with the big fashion house names, but now that Gucci is embracing him and his designs, it proves as a very good sign for the fashion world.

Gucci and Dapper Dan are also looking to launch a Gucci x Dapper Dan capsule that will be a part of Gucci’s fall 2018 collection, and will be available in Gucci stores globally.

Diane von Furstenberg chief executive officer Jonathan Saunders leaves brand

Jonathan Saunders has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg. The Scottish designer only held the position since mid-2016 but quickly left his stamp on the brand, from mixing up the fabrications and silhouettes of the clothes to even updating the very label inside of them. Saunders was responsible for all product categories, as well as store design, Web design, and marketing.

Saunders said in a release, “I am grateful for Diane’s support and for the opportunity of guiding this iconic brand. I am so proud of everything we have accomplished in the past 18 months. I thank the incredible team for their dedication and support, and will continue to be a friend and admirer of the brand.”

Saunders became the very first chief creative officer of the company, an award given to him because of his more than 12 years as being the head of his own label in the U.K. By the time Saunders got to the brand, DVF had was already one of America’s most established contemporary brands.

Hours after Saunders’ left, von Furstenberg told WWD, “This is a changing world and a disruptive world where you really have to be modern. As a family, we decided that we are willing to face that and follow that…. First of all, Jonathan was here for 18 months and he was completely and totally free. He had a completely clear palette. And I am very happy that I made that decision because he has had an impact on many things and whatever he did, some of that heritage will last. I really want that. Now it is a matter of using his heritage and the heritage of the brand.”

While the brand did enjoy growth in relevance there was some instability behind the scenes. Six months into Saunders’ tenure, the company’s CEO, Paola Riva, left. And earlier this month, von Furstenberg announced that she planned to hire an investment banking firm to help the brand sell an equity stake.

“I am so thankful for Jonathan’s beautiful work and the effort and dedication he has put into DVF in the last 18 months,” Von Furstenberg said in a statement. “He will leave an important and lasting heritage to the brand.”

Future Hip Hop Star Jirias Releases New Single, “Box Me In”

With every year that passes it seems there are multitudes upon multitudes of new artists popping up, doing their best to receive recognition for their skills and ideas, so much so that it often becomes extremely difficult to find artists hidden in the rough, there is just too much white noise obscuring us from finding true talent. That is where we come in, we dive into the sea of new artists to emerge with the fresh catch of the day, and today that is Jirias with his latest released song, Box Me In.

Jirias is a unique example of modern day hip-hop; eschewing the “club banger” beats and overplayed samples in favor of creating a sound profile that features both classic motifs interposed with modern sensibilities. Hailing from New Jersey and wearing his inspirations on his sleeve, Jirias is an artist to keep an eye on.

Box Me In’s four-minute and sixteen-second runtime tells you right off the bat that Jirias isn’t going for some bubble gum two-minute long club affair. Featuring an upbeat instrumental backing that inspires the vision of driving a fast car at night through an empty city. In fact, Jirias’ use of imagery continues to his lyrics as well, with many scenes playing out through his use of wordplay and storytelling.

Confidence is another major aspect we here like about Box Me In. Jirias has an almost palpable swagger on display; he just positively exudes star qualities in his flows and deliveries, he makes you believe every word he says, it doesn’t simply feel like he is reading off a sheet of paper or trying to emulate another artist, he is simply Jirias being Jirias, and it is a breath of fresh air in a stagnate industry desperately in need of something new.

Jirias is a favorite among us here, and we forsee big, big things for his future. To hear more from Jirias, check out his Soundcloud for his latest releases, and the Spotify link below to listen to his latest album relase, Castle:

GQ name new Fashion Director and Style and Grooming Director

Dylan Jones, editor of British GQ and Editor in Chief of GQ Style announced today an array of new hires, set to further invest in their high-end-agenda-setting journalism and fashion coverage as the magazine is heading into their 30th anniversary year. The appointments include a significant number of additions to the fashion team.

GQ started off by appointing Luke Day Fashion Director with immediate effect. Day will also continue to be Editor of GQ Style, a role he has been a part of since February 2015, and before that he was Fashion Director of the same title.

Dylan Jones said, “I’m delighted that Luke will now be working across GQ, as well as continuing to edit GQ Style – his ability to speak visually to a wide audience while also showcasing cutting-edge creativity and finding the most exciting new talent is a rare combination. I’m also thrilled to be welcoming Teo to the team, who will bring his considerable experience to both print and digital. As the most important luxury men’s title in the country, with fashion at its heart, all these additions to the British GQ fashion team will further reinforce the brand’s position in the market place.”

Prior to working at GQ, Day was Fashion Editor of Arena Homme+ and Fashion Director of Attitude magazine. He has also been responsible for rekindling the image for many top global brands such as Topman, MSGM, and Tommy Hilfiger.

Luke Day commented, Teo van den Broeke added, “GQ is the foremost men’s media brand in the world and I am both excited and honoured to join the brilliant British team as Style and Grooming Director. I look forward to a long and illustrious tenure at this prestigious magazine.”

Teo van den Broeke has also been announced today as the new Style and Grooming Director of British GQ. Broeke is currently Style Director of British Esquire, Deputy Editor of Esquire’s luxury biannual the Big Black Book, and the title’s annual Big Watch Book. Broeke in the past has worked for Wallpaper and has also spent some time writing for Times, the Evening Standard, the Telegraph, the Guardian, Matches Fashion and Mr Porter, as well as also giving regular talks and seminars about men’s style for a number of brands such as Louis Vuitton and Gieves & Hawkes. Broeke will assume the position January 2, 2018.

Elgar Johnson has been promoted to the position of Deputy Editor of GQ Style. He will maintain his position of Fashion Director of the title. Johnson has a background in modeling, but also began his career assisting the legendary Simon Foxton before joining i-D Magazine, where during the course of four years, he has moved up through the ranks to become Senior Fashion Editor. Johnson joined GQ Style from Man About Town, where he previously held the position of Fashion Director.

Sophie Clark has been promoted to Fashion Editor of GQ Style. Clark was previously a Junior Fashion Editor for the magazine.

Grace Gilfeather will remain Fashion Editor of British GQ and Carlotta Constant has been announced as Junior Fashion Editor, a step up from her previous position of Acting Style & Grooming Editor.

Jeffrey Rudes puts luxury men’s line on hold

Jeffrey Rudes has put his luxury men’s wear collection on hold.

In May, the Los Angeles-based Rudes closed his 5,800-square-foot store at 57 Greene Street in Soho. The store opened in July 2015 and it was home to his eponymously named collection. It was his only brick and mortar store and had also served as the setting for his menswear presentations during the New York Fashion Week.

During the closing of his store, Rudes said he was planning to focus on the brand’s more booming online business and select wholesale accounts. Last Week, there was an eviction notice pinned to the front door of the shop, citing nonpayment of rent and a return of the empty retail location to the landlord, 57-63 Greene Realty LLC.

Via e-mail, Rudes said he “gave the store back to the landlord last month.” At the same time, he addressed a line on his former e-commerce site that read: “Coming back soon.”

Rudes also wrote: “I put the business on hiatus for a while. I am reworking the business model to enter into the luxury designer market from another point of view.”

Rudes is best known as the founder of J Brand, a business he started off in 2005. He resigned as Chief Executive Officer back in May 2014 after he sold his equity in the business. Fast Retailing Co. acquired control of 80.1 percent of the brand for $300 million in December 2012.

He launched the Jeffrey Rudes collection in 2015 with headquarters in Los Angeles and a design and production studio in Bologna, Italy. The business was self-funded.

Balmain’s men’s pre-collection includes a $40,000 baseball jacket

Daywear has been on Balmain’s radar for some time now as they look to grow their company under new chief executive officer, Massimo Piombini. They have yet to seem to let go of the glitz life though, as they have featured a crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000. The jacket hangs around in the “couture” section of the brands first ever men’s pre-collection.

The jacket has the words “Balmain Army” across the back, this piece alone took around two months to finish. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director Olivier Rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday.

The pre-fall 2018 men’s lineup is filled to the brim with denim, jersey, and knitwear that all ranges from casual to blinged-out. “There is the same diversity as for the women’s,” said the designer. The brand has already massive celebrity names who willingly support the label such as Cristiano Ronaldo, Justin Bieber, Kanye West, and Zayn Malik. The brand has stated though that it is “looking to attract a broader male audience: as part of their international expansion. Menswear currently makes up around 40 percent of their total sales.

Rousteing described the men’s collection as a mirror reflection of their Balmain woman line, but of also himself. “My approach was also what I want to wear myself next winter,” he said.

So far, the collection includes sport biker-inspired gear, a range of double-breasted jackets, sailor knits and peacoats. The collection also includes the signature peacock-rock fare like the T-shirts with Ziggy Stardust-themed embroidery. The age range for their core customers ranged from 20-35, according to Rousteing.

Rousteing has said that there is currently a menswear “revolution” the male customers he has been designing for the past seven years are embracing “glamor without feeling ridiculous,” he said. “I can push boundaries more now,” said Rousteing.

Converse and Jonathan Anderson set to launch new footwear

Converse and designer Jonathan Anderson have collaborated on a new shoe line. Anderson thinks the new shoe line gives an “intimate portrayal: of himself as well as offering an insight into his personal style.

“I’ve been wearing Converse for years and years, so when they approached me I couldn’t turn it down because it’s something that I wear,” he told Business of Fashion.

The 33-year-old designer received the Accessories Designer of the Year for his work with Loewe, as well as also being awarded British Womenswear Designer of the Year with his label JW Anderson at The Fashion Awards 2017.

“The collection for me feels more like an intimate portrayal of myself,” he told Vogue exclusively of the trainer line. “It’s the tactility of it. It’s a self-portrait of what I’m into and what I wear.

The collection includes a multi-colored glittery high-top Chuck and a Thunderbolt trainer. “I wanted to work on something new and unexpected for the brand,” he explained of the unisex Glitter_Gutter line. “It’s the first time I’m excited about projecting myself into a product, which is a weird and new thing for me.”

“Converse is a subcultural icon! You can define its sneakers by three adjectives – quintessential, comfortable and affordable. It’s an item that all the brands would like to create! It’s amazing how the design hasn’t really changed since 1917.”

Anderson admits that Chuck Taylor’s have “served an incredible purpose to me. The brand he created is universal and I would love JW Anderson to be that universal.”

The shoes can be purchased on Converse and cost around $105 USD.

Vetements to join Paris Men’s Fashion Week

Demna Gvasalia is continuing to surprise the Paris fashion calendar and has decided to experiment with new runway timetables for his Vetements brand.

WWD has been the first to confirm that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show, for the fall 2018 season on January 19th during Men’s Fashion Week in Paris. The details about the timing and venue could not be learned.

In the past, Vetements has shown their men’s and women’s collection together during the couture show, but last season the label skipped the runway in favor of doing a showroom presentation.

The brand Vetements was founded in Paris back in 2014, now the company has launched itself onto the fashion scene with bold shows. A couple of the shows have been hosted in the most bizarre places like the basement darkrooms of a seedy gay club, and a shabby Chinese restaurant. These types of location have helped spread the streetwear trend and brought forth a breaking approach to fashion based on garments rather than the seasonal themes.

Last year the brand made an official switch from its show from the ready-to-wear schedule into the couture week, then soon after a guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de la haute Couture, forged a path that American brands such as Proenza Schouler and Rodarte followed. Men’ Fashion Week in Paris is scheduled to run from January 17 to 21.

Men’s suits company Indochino discovers how millennials like to buy suits

Showrooms, for the most part, have just been used for cars and appliances, but as of late have found a new product. On Monday, the Canadian-based online men’s clothing company Indochino has announced it will open its 19th showroom on December 14th at the Mall of America in Minnesota. Indochino has also said it will be doubling down on the concept with at least 18 more showrooms to be introduced in 2018 in cities like Austin, Nashville, and Atlanta with even more showrooms to open in Los Angeles and New York. Philadelphia as well already holds a couple of stores.

With e-commerce becoming increasingly embedded in physical stores, the showroom concept has gained a surprising amount of traction among the apparel industry. The showroom format, which has been used by big named men’s fashion brand Bonobos to eyewear from Warby Parker, shows how the suits are currently being sold, especially to the millennial age group. Indochino’s showrooms are operational by appointments only and instead of carrying inventory, they present around 100 different fabric panels and shirt samples. Mannequins in the stores showcase the top suits. The customers who enter the store then act as the designer who are assisted by a salesperson, also known as the Style Guide, who inputs the fabric and customizations.  Once the options and customizations have been selected, customers are then measured and the finished suits and shirts are shipped to their homes.

Along with more showrooms, Indochino chief executive officer Drew Green has addressed that the retailer company is cutting down their delivery times for an ordered suit from four weeks to three.

‘Showrooming’ is a great way to introduce an online-only brand to consumers,” said Christa Hart, senior managing director at FTI Consulting. “The downside is that it still has some of the negatives associated with online today. It lacks the immediate gratification we want from impulse purchases and may not be ‘quick’ enough for last-minute procrastinators.”

Green has said the showroom concept works the best because Indochino pays less rent and has less overhead, which reduces the costs for the customers as well. Most the suits start around $399.

“Showrooms actually require less space than a regular store, as we don’t hold any inventory,” Green said. “We have refined our approach to retail expansion over the past couple years, to the point that our showrooms are able to be self-sustaining, and can pay back in under a year.”

“Our showroom philosophy is to guide every customer from start to finish to help them achieve the perfect fit,” he said.

“The proliferation of the showrooming concept shows how retailers are adjusting to the new retail landscape,” said Jacob Cooper at MSC Retail, which handled the transaction to bring men’s fashion retailer Bonobos to 1519 Walnut Street. “Next-day shipping options allow retailers to save money on high-rent brick-and-mortar occupancy costs by shrinking their footprints.”

“Customers can then simply try a product, like apparel or electronics, without having to carry them around for the rest of the day,” he said. “Millennials want to be as efficient as possible, which means a `get-in, get-out’ attitude to shopping.”

High fashion has met high tech

Recently, a 3D-printing company called Ai Build has teamed up with luxury fashion brand Bottletop to launch a new project in London. The project was Ai Build has completed the interior design for the Bottletop’s flagship brick and mortar store. They finished the design by using robotic fabrication and recycled materials. The interior of the 3D-printed store was completed by using filament and Reflow, an “ink” provider whose filament is made up entirely of recycled plastic waste. The project is used as an example of how fashion and construction can be used together in a sustainable way, without excluding beautiful designs.

“What is so special about 3D printing is that it opens up the possibility to control precisely where every single drop of material will be placed to form a physical object,” Daghan Cam, Ai Build’s co-founder and CEO, told Digital Trends. “That basically means that the material is deposited only where it needs to be, [in contrast] to conventional subtractive manufacturing methods which can be extremely wasteful.”

Ai Build in the past has made powerful impacts with their construction of sophisticated structures, meticulously built using Kuka Robots and machine vision algorithms. Last year, the London-based startup revealed its “Daedalus Pavilion” at a conference in Amsterdam. The 350-pound structure consisted of 48 separate parts, but only took fifteen days to print and complete.

Cam and his team have taken their design work towards the fashion industry by teaming up with Bottletop, a fashion company that creates their goods out of upcycled material as well. They do this to instill sustainable values into a traditionally unsustainable industry.

“Fashion and construction industries are two of the biggest contributors of environmental pollution today,” Cam said. “This project demonstrates how cutting-edge technology can become the solution for such a fundamental problem of humanity as the environmental pollution.”

The Bottletop store is not completely made up of 3D printed material, like the proposed office space in Dubai, but by still using some recycled materials the project still manages to make an impact.

By turning waste plastic from India and Africa into a luxurious construction with our partners, we are questioning the status quo,” Cam added. “We believe that supporting the circular economy and zero-waste design philosophy through projects like this is the key for achieving a sustainable future of our built environment.”

Lewis Hamilton sporting one of the hottest menswear trends of 2018

Recently Lewis Hamilton has been spotted sporting the distinctive tartan look and he looked good doing it too. He was pictured alongside Connor McGregor and Donatella Versace at the recent Fashion Awards 2017 in London.

#FashionAwards

A post shared by Lewis Hamilton (@lewishamilton) on

The four-time Formula One winner has gone for the red tartan blazer and trousers but then continued to go for the unorthodox route by pairing the blazer with a black turtleneck, and a flashy necklace. He finished the look off with leathers boots and a handkerchief that matches Versace’s dress.

Lewis Hamilton certainly needed to make an impression at such a prestigious red-carpet event, given that he had one of the leading fashion designers in the world on his arm. While the 32-year-old has admirers aplenty, he opted to escort none other than Donatella Versace,62.

Queen @donatella_versace ??? #FashionAwards

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Inside the event, Hamilton sat shoulder to shoulder with Bradley Cooper’s model girlfriend Irina Shayk, Boxer Connor McGregor, singer Rita Ora, and model Jourdan Dunn.

Best table in the house #FashionAwards

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Tartan isn’t a new look to be introduced to the menswear fashion world as its been around since the 17th century before making a few comeback stints, mostly in the seventies. Now in the present-day tartan has reached a new look. Tartan now has a bolder approach to the classic look which can then be backed up by attention catching accessories.

This look certainly can catch on, considering how bold and daring a statement piece like this can make, but only time will tell if this look can find its way into 2018 and dominate the year.

A collection that simplifies getting dressed

Over the course of years, Christine Cenentera, the stylist and fashion director of Vogue Australia, found that she has been constantly been the go-to for fashion advice. She would be bothered by her sisters over a well-tailored black blazer that didn’t cost half a paycheck and even get asked by friends over the basic simple wardrobe necessities.

“You’re always asked these questions,” she says. “And often I find it difficult to send them places that are reasonable — middle-ground but really well-made pieces.”

Her and her longtime partner for over 10 years, Australian designer Josh Goot, they have decided to come up with a solution. The solution being Wardrobe NYC, an edited collection of high-quality basics for both men and women, which launched today on Thursday, December 7.

RELEASE 01: TAILORED Photography @jackie_nickerson

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The full collection features only 16 pieces, 8 for men and women respectfully. The bae for what Goot and Cenentera feel is supposed to replicate a simple, unimpeachable wardrobe that is possible for almost everyone to wear from all different professions and fields. The collection can appeal to people that range from different personal styles, ages and body types. Many of the pieces in the collection are cut nicely and range from all different sizes, their men’s T-shirt runs from a small up to 3XL. The men’s collection has an assortment of necessary wardrobe pieces like a roomy overcoat, a two-button blazer, a T-shirt, a pair of loose-fitting trousers and a hoodie. For the women, there is a big coat, a white collarless shirt, black leggings, and an A-line skirt. All the pieces in the collection are either black or white, a palette that Goot explains as “democratic” and “solutions-based”. The collection is filled with all the things you would enjoy wearing almost every day of the week and can match perfectly with almost everything else that’s already sitting in your closet.

The collection is entirely produced in Italy and can only be bought from the brand’s website. For both the men and women, the entire eight-piece wardrobe collection cost $3,000. There is also an available four-piece “core” wardrobe which cost $1,500. this four-piece wardrobe consists of a blazer, a button-down, a T-shirt, and a skirt for the women. For the men, it includes a blazer, a button-down, T-shirt and trousers. None of the items from the collection are available to be purchased separately.

The reason to pare down the items shows how this collection is trying to separate from the norm of other designer collections. This collection wants to change from fast-fashion clothing, where pieces are produced in bulk and for cheap prices.

“What we’re trying to say is, this is less, and it’s really well done, and it will last you a really long time, and it will never go out of style,” Goot says. “These pieces are forever. What’s so great and different about working this way is that it’s not about the excess production, or the excess styles that everyone designs in conventional models. It’s also people’s time.”

You can shop the collection at Wardrobe.NYC

North Penn graduate launches upscale men’s store with Philadelphia Eagles player

Jay Amin has tried his hand at different career paths throughout his young life, but throughout it all there was always one thing that stood out, the North Penn High School grad has always been one step ahead of everyone.

Back in #Philly. @zachertz who wore it better ?? #damarisavile

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“Fashion has always been an extreme passion of mine, and my dad was always into suiting and looking his best, so I grew up knowing what different things about the suit were. As I got older I paid more attention to European styles, since I was from there,” noted Amin, who was born in London and moved with his parents to Upper Gwynedd when he was eight years old. “Caring about my appearance was always very important to me and I’ve always been in industries where suiting was required.”

With his careers ranging from being a hotel owner to a pharmaceutical start-up and even included a short time in the Navy, it always loomed in the background that the world of suits and ties. It was no surprise then when Amin partnered with Eagle safety and a known fashion maverick, Malcolm Jenkins. Together they opened up a high-end affordable men’s store called Damari Savile at Washington Square in Philadelphia last summer.

Fly Eagles #damarisavile

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“I’ve always been an entrepreneur at heart, and I’ve always kept my eyes open, and although fashion is a very difficult industry to get involved with, it was just a good timing thing for me to do this now,” Amin said. “Malcolm and I kind of bumped into each other and we realized that we both wanted the same exact thing at the same exact time, and we both had the resources and the time to put into it so we kind of jumped in with both feet and here we are. It all happened quickly. Our partnership was formed in March and the store was open in June.”

The store is located at 709 Walnut St, Philadelphia. ““Damari is Malcolm’s middle name and Savile is named after Savile Row in London, where I’m from,” Amin explained. The store features Amin’s tailoring philosophy for custom-fitted suits as well as ready to wear. The store is quickly becoming a statement for style sophistication in a city that is not well known for its fashion sense.  The store is aiming to target the younger millennial market, while the store also caters to wide demographic, including plus-size males.

“Fashion for men is not very prominent here. Philadelphia guys just don’t care as much as guys in other cities,” Amin said. “There are places in the city where you can get custom suits but it just wasn’t what we wanted it to be and it became a lot of time wasted, making the purchase, getting alterations and it became very tiresome. So we just sat down and realized we had this opportunity to effectively create what people were looking for. Malcolm and I have completely different styles as well,” he added. “Malcolm is very outspoken with his dress and mine is very subtle. For me, less is more.”

“We’re definitely not a fashion company. Fashion comes and goes. We’re not the company that goes on the Internet to see what’s cool this month and try to replicate that. That’s not what we’re about. We really try to help men identify what their personal style actually is, because style isn’t something most men will take the time to think about. Identifying your style is key to moving in the right direction.”

For more about the company and its merchandise, visit DamariSavile.com

Tommy Hilfiger taking his “see now, buy now” show to Milan

Tommy Hilfiger is going on the road again, but this time he’s turning in his big-budget London set for a different scene farther southwest. On Tuesday, the American designer has announced his plans to bring his “see now, buy now” Spring 2018 runway show to Milan on February 25, at the end of Milan Fashion Week. Just like past seasons, the “TommyNow” show will include both women’s and men’s looks, as well as introducing his fourth Tommy x GIgi collaboration with stunning model Gigi Hadid.

“My vision for TommyNow was to create a global platform that we could take on tour to bring our show experience to new audiences around the world,” said Hilfiger in a statement. “It’s about the fusion of fashion, entertainment and pop culture with experiences, performances and inspiring interactions that are designed around our consumers. As one of the fashion capitals of the world, Milan is the perfect place to celebrate our next TommyNow show.”

Although the Spring 2018 venue has not been named yet, the brand will more than likely secure a space at no expense, and continuing to uphold their theme that’s as over the top as their previous seasons such as, “Tommy Pier” in New York, “Tommyland” in Los Angeles and “Rock Circus” in London. The London show took place at the Roundhouse, a famous concert venue that’s hosted many famous acts like Rolling Stones, The Beatles and Jimi Hendrix.

Just like the brands “see now, buy now” title states, all the men’s and women’s runway items will be instantly available in more than 70 countries across the label’s website, select wholesale partners, social media and a shoppable livestream, as well as their image recognition comer app called “TommyNow Snap”. The app includes augmented reality features to shop the runway, and has Facebook messenger bots called TMY.GRL and TMY.BOY.

Balenciaga combines men’s and women’s on one runway

Balenciaga Creative Director Demna Gvasalia announced this past Tuesday that the newest collection will be showing the men’s and women’s collection together for the first time, adding to the growing list of dual-gender runways.

Gvasalia has rust relaunched Balenciaga’s menswear business last June, and so far, has shown three new collections as part of Men’s Fashion Week in Paris. Suggesting the menswear collections have been well-received, the label has announced that it will start launching men’s pre-collections, beginning with a pre-fall range to be shown in January.

A handful of other luxury brands have begun showing their men’s and women’s collections together in their recent seasons including Kenzo, Burberry, Calvin Klein, and Gucci. Gucci and Balenciaga are both owned by Kering. When Gucci announced its plans for gender unification, the New York Times has reported that Kering was using Gucci as a “test case”, saying it would apply the concept to their other brands if it was successful.

The Gvasalia label has already had a lot of success this year alone, especially after they were named as the top brand during Q3 by the Lyst Index partnership with the Business of Fashion.

The brand is set to present the menswear and womenswear together during Paris Fashion Week in March 2018.

Target to launch mens line

Target has recently geared up and is prepared to launch a men’s apparel line. Target has always been geared towards women because they make up 55 percent of the chain’s core customers. Target has decided to make this move in order to boost their revenue which has taken a substantial hit in recent months over a misguided food move, a hacker attack, and the competition Amazon.com Inc has been bringing.

“Target has always had this fashion-forward reputation for women — why not for men?” said Candace Corlett, president of WSL Strategic Retail in New York. “They’ve had men’s clothes before, but I don’t remember any of it being interesting. What have they been waiting for?”

the retailer has unveiled Goodfellow & co., a line of stylish everyday shirts, pants and shoes. The brand has prices way cheaper than J. Crew while their styles are up to par with fast fashion companies like H&M. More than 80 percent of the assortment is also available in big and tall sizes.

Target is beginning to reach out to men with ads in GQ magazine and during televised football and baseball games. They are hoping to lure guys like Andrew Hart,23, an analyst in Dallas, who shops at stores like J. Crew and Banana Republic and said he “would never buy clothes at Target,” damning it as “both less stylish and lower quality.” So far, the Goodfellow brand has had a positive impact on Target with sales more than 10 percent than previous Target men’s offering.

“The market has changed and so has the guest,” said Tritton, who joined Target in 2016 from high-end department store Nordstrom Inc. “More men are purchasing clothes and they are more discerning. So it was time for us to do something new.”

“These men grew up very differently from their fathers,” Corlett said. “Their moms had jobs and if they needed new jeans, they went and bought them. They are shoppers and they are getting married to women who expect them to be shoppers.”

The store is still said to be aiming towards the women since they do make up the majority of their sales but they are definitely making a bigger push towards menswear. Target has also said they are aiming to come out with an additional adult beverage that go beyond craft beer, more specifically tequila or Bourbon.

GQ reveals its best and worst dressed men

Fashion can be confusing and difficult to keep up with at times. What’s hot and up and coming one minute is out the next, with almost no reasoning behind any of it. Even with this, there are still mass amounts of people out there who dedicate their lives to fashion and always seem to look perfect. There are also mass amounts of people who could care less about what is on their body.

For both groups, there always seems to be a list, a list that is always new every year to praise and highlight the best dressers. The list is published in GQ’s January edition annually, but it can always change every year. 12 months is a long time in fashion terms.

GQ’s top editorial staff help decides who made the cut for both, after all, they’re a men’s fashion magazine who constantly write about the fashion world for a living. However, they are not the only ones casting votes. There are also top names in the fashion industry doing the voting. These names include Giorgio Armani, Christopher Bailey, Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Kors, and Sir Paul Smith.

Those who made the top ten best-dressed lists contain; Famous English actor Matt Smith, critically acclaimed rapper A$AP Rocky, Oscar-nominated actor Jeff Goldblum, recent solo artist Harry Styles, The Amazing Spider-Man 2 actor Andrew Garfield, grime artist Skepta, Rogue One actor Riz Ahmed, infamous actor Ryan Reynolds, son of the one of the England’s best soccer player Brooklyn Beckham, and Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele.

Those who made the list of worst dressed contains; Game of Thrones actor Kit Harington, famous writer Paul Merton, supercar driver/youtuber Shmee150, British politician Jacob Rees-mogg, Singer Morrissey, most subscribed youtuber PewDiePie, filmmaker Louis Theroux, musician Marshmello, Tesla founder Elon Musk, and British fitness trainer Joe Wicks.

Unless you spend your whole life studying fashion it is quite hard what to make of the list in terms of conclusions. Bottom line from the best dressed is that they all have their own unique style that also somewhat fits their personality.

When it came to the worst dressed list, you can easily tell that all of the men on that list dress in the most basic attire with not a lot of personality behind it. There are jumpers over shirts, plain suits, or in the case of British fitness coach Joe Wicks, all gym shorts. These men are not dressing to impress but just dressing to get the job done.

One big conclusion that can be drawn is that all the top ten on the “best dressed” list are mostly actors and singers with the exception of Brooklyn Beckham and Alessandro Michele but those two are heavily tied with the menswear fashion world. The top ten from the “worst dressed” list are from all different types of fields like politics, business, fitness, and non-scripted television like YouTube.

Tom Ford teams up with Mr. Porter

When it comes to fabricating a wardrobe that functions as both fashionable and dependable through multiple seasons, the ultimate power comes from being able to formulate an impeccable foundation is crucial. With that being said it is sometimes challenging to find a good foundation to construct a valuable wardrobe. But when Tom Ford drops in with a capsule collection of his wardrobe must-haves, he will singlehandedly make the task a lot easier.

Ford created a capsule exclusively for Mr. Porter. The capsule collection is the first ever one done by the brand, it is made up of six of Tom Ford’s most iconic designs, each being specifically rendered to certain colors and fabrics that somewhat mirror the same items in Ford’s own personal closet. The collection will range from refined looks to the must rugged. It will include some stand-out pieces including a sumptuous emerald green velvet tuxedo jacket (retail price around $3,650) and even includes a western-inspired suede field jacket (retail price $7,960) both striking just in-between of trendy and classic.

The capsule was released in time to celebrate Tom Ford’s 10th anniversary. The collection features the pieces that have come to form the core of the brand. The slim-cut Shelton suit ($5,070) has been redone in a luxe grain de poudre wool and Ford has turned the classic white poplin shirt ($610) into a subtly sexy shirt thanks to a barely their gold bar designed to keep the structures collar in place.

The collection, which was launched on MrPorter.com earlier this fall, is rounded out by a sleek pair of chocolate brown leather boots ($1,790) that have been hand-polished and designed to be paired perfectly with everything from suits to jeans and even with a shawl-collared cashmere cardigan ($2,390).

you can shop the full collection of the Tom Ford collection on MrPorter.com

GQ editor Dylan Jones criticizes cover star

GQ editor Dylan Jones has criticized the newest issue cover star, Jeremy Corbyn. Jeremy Corbyn is the leader of the labour party in the England.

Dylan Jones told BBC news that Corbyn’s photoshoot was “as difficult as shooting any Hollywood celebrity”. Jones has claimed that despite the Labour leader’s “rock star persona” he was “underwhelming” in person.

The editor was then faced with backlash on Twitter with various Corbyn supporters and others accusing Jones of being politically bias. Jones in the past has written about his support for the Conservatives and was the author of “Cameron on Cameron” which was a series of interviews with the former Tory leader before he then went on to become to Prime Minister in 2010.

Corbyn’s former spokesman Matt Zarb-Cousin said Jones had not been in the room for the interview and said the editor’s political views were “well known”.

One Twitter user said, “might have actually bought the @BritishGQ for the first time in a blue moon for the Corbyn feature but the cheap takedown attempt by Tory boy editor Dylan Jones has convinced me to keep my money.”

According to Jones the Labour leader was “adamant” that he would wear a Marks and Spencer suit for the photo shoot. In an interview with BBC Radio 4’s Today program, Jones said, “The actual shoot itself was quite tortuous. It was as difficult as shooting any Hollywood celebrity.”

“We’ve shot many politicians for our cover … but never have we encountered such a ring. Obviously [Labour director of communications] Seumas Milne and his crew are very particular gate-keepers.

“They didn’t really seem to understand the process at all, didn’t understand (a) that he would have to be photographed in the first place (b) that he would need to be presentable or that he couldn’t just turn up in his anorak.

“When he actually turned up for the shoot it was almost like he was being pushed around like a grandpa for the family Christmas photograph. He wasn’t particularly aware of what was going on. But we’re very pleased with what we ended up with.”

Nonetheless, Corbyn joins David Cameron and Boris Johnson on the list of politicians to feature on the cover of men’s “fashion and style” magazine of GQ.

When asked whether he had a falling out with Corbyn’s team, Jones said: “We haven’t fallen out with anyone, we are just describing the process of what we went through to get the cover, which I found very intriguing.”

GQ Creative Director Jim Moore stepping down

Jim Moore, the longstanding editor for GQ, will be transitioning into the role of creative director r-at-large following a long series of departures from the Condé Nast men’s title. The longtime Condé Nast editor is finally stepping away from the legacy publisher.

GQ’s creative director Jim Moore established the magazine as being the go-to style guide for American men for over four decades. He held the creative director position since 1998. Will Welch, who is the editor-in-chief of GQ’s quarterly, will be taking over in January of 2018.

@gq

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Just like Vogue’s creative director, Grace Coddington, reduced her role at the magazine in January 2016 while still being able to maintain an office and a large commitment to the publisher, Moore will take the title of creative director-at-large and will still be an active contributor to the magazine’s pages and some projects. The details of Moore’s future contract is still being under discussion.

“[Editor-in-chief Jim Nelson] has been a big advocate for me, so he wants me around and he wants my hand on every issue going forward,” Moore tells Business of Fashion, explaining that the difference will now be that his involvement will vary from project to project. “One of my favorite things is being an ambassador for the magazine. That’s a really important part of what I want to continue, the video series — teaching is really important for me.”

At Condé Nast, the responsibilities of the creative director-at-large role will vary from title to title. At the same time, the publication will be able to cut costs as the print industry continues to struggle to adapt to a more digitally focused media environment. This past November, Condé Nast announced that GQ would reduce its issues from 12 to 11 and lay off around 80 people across the company. During this cost cut, GQ lost high profile positions in the Condé Nast department, including the executive digital director and fashion director.

Moore says the new arrangement worked for him and GQ. ““I’m sure when you get slightly pushed out of the nest, it’s a wobbly feeling — especially for me, it’s been my life for four decades,” he said. “I’m really excited about staying connected to this but looking out there for other projects.”

“I don’t know any one person who’s had more effect on the way men dress in America,” says Nelson. “Jim’s is an almost mythic influence. When we threw an anniversary party several years back where Kanye West performed live on stage, even Kanye rapped about the talent and legend of Jim Moore.”