A handful of Pakistan designers are starting to take a bold stance on topics that are predominant in the country, trying to make it okay to think a different way. Shahnaz ki Shaadi, or Shahnaz Wedding, has kicked off a campaign for new wedding dresses but in her campaign, she has been showing off women in their 50s with their adult children celebrating with them. In Pakistan, divorce is still a weird subject, but Shahnaz’s campaign makes it obvious that love can’t be found at any age.
“Right now is the ideal time to be in the fashion industry,” Ali Xeeshan, a designer, says, “Since the Pakistani film industry is not as big as Hollywood or Bollywood, fashion gets the spotlight here. That’s why we can really make use of the situation by highlighting social issues.”
“I think all fashion brands have a responsibility about how women see themselves,” says Khadija Rahman, Generation’s creative head, whose parents Nosheen Khan and Saad Rahman launched the brand in 1983. “Women can be seen differently — they’re all beautiful, dark, fair … There’s no one fixed standard.”
The British designer Kim Jones was announced as the new artistic director of Dior Homme, just two months after he has stepped down from the menswear line of Louis Vuitton. He will be replacing Kris Van Assche, who was in the position for 11 years.
The new decision to hire Jones will be part of the first of major decisions by Pietro Beccari, chief executive of Christian Dior Couture, who joined the brand from Fendi in November.
“I am delighted to welcome Kim Jones at Dior Homme,” Mr. Beccari said in a statement, adding that Mr. Jones would “create an elegant men’s wardrobe both classic and anchored in contemporary culture.”
“I am confident that he will continue to further develop Dior Homme on a global scale,” Mr. Beccari added.
“I am deeply honored to join the house of Dior, a symbol of the ultimate elegance,” Mr. Jones said. “I am committed to create a modern and innovative male silhouette built upon the unique legacy of the house.”
The CFDA Awards is the closest you can get to the Oscar’s for the fashion. The CFDA Awards is set to celebrate the best American designs. Last night the nominations for Menswear Designer of the Year were announced, and they include Thom Browne, Tom Ford, Raf Simons for Calvin Klein, Virgil Abloh for Off-White and New York hype brand Supreme.
It has come to many as a surprise that a skate brand has picked up a CFDA nomination. It is odd because only Public School has been named a winner for the award that isn’t one of the big label brands. But Supreme has done nothing that Public School has. They don’t put on runway shows nor are their designers helping out with other big label brands. Instead, Supreme’s most desirable items are graphic hoodies and T-shirts while collaborating with other brands like Public Enemy.
Supreme in the past has ripped off big brands wholesale in the past but lately has been trying to get a foot closer to the giants by taking a big investment from the Carlyle Group, collaborating with Louis Vuitton and opening up a new store in New York City.
In a statement by Steven Kolb, head of CFDA, he started urging voters to consider a wider pool of brands that they had in the past. “We truly want the event to celebrate the full creative spectrum and richness of American fashion,” Kolb reportedly wrote. “Just think of how much fashion is changing, and the diversity of our industry. Designers with broad cultural backgrounds and political ideas are expressing their experiences and beliefs in their collections. Their work deserves greater acknowledgment, acceptance, and visibility.”
Walmart has now made a massive shift to push towards online apparel to compete with Amazon. Walmart is betting on four new private fashion brands to push them to the front.
“Seeking higher margins via higher-priced goods, Walmart is looking to woo more affluent shoppers who buy technology and groceries at the chain but would typically walk past its fashion and beauty aisles,” Preston Bottomy, general manager of prestige beauty, said.
The brands launching for Walmart are Time and Tru for women, plus size label Terra & Sky, Wonder Nation for kids and also the relaunch of George, a brand exclusively for men.
Walmart, in the past, has struggled to find a good fashion niche in apparel beyond basic tee’s. As Amazon continues to spread in all categories, Walmart has started becoming more and more vulnerable to the online giant, as their competitor constantly betters price and convenience.
According to Matthew Kaness, the new executive in residence and vice president of Walmart US e-commerce, the retail brand is taking a more curated approach to enhancing its product mix across all categories.
Director of the Palias Galliera for the last eight years, Olivier Saillard turned the city of Paris’s fashion museum into a must visit event, thanks to ideas from performance pieces by Tilda Swinton to the very first Azzedine Alaïa retrospective in the city. The fashion community was hit with a curveball when he decided to step down and quit in January to become the director of J.M. Weston, the French luxury men’s shoe company.
The person who took his place was the relatively unknown Spaniard named Miren Arzalluz, a political historian and who has honed her curating skills for eight years as the head of the Cristóbal Balenciaga Foundation in Getaria, Spain. She ultimately pursued the new job because “this job was really going back to my thing.”
“I studied history, worked at a British think tank, earned my master’s in comparative politics at the London School of Economics. It was just after 9/11. The world was in such turmoil. I started going to the Victoria & Albert Museum for fashion exhibitions. Then I remember walking into the National Portrait Gallery bookshop and seeing a whole section on fashion history. It was a revelation. When you study history, it’s to be a social or political historian. But fashion? That was something that I had never dreamt of. I went to the Courtauld Institute of Art in Somerset House for a master’s in history of dress, and fell in love with the subject. I thought: “Oh, this is what I want to do.””
The popular British fashion house recently posted on their Instagram account apologizing for stealing the graphics of two young designers.
Vivienne Westwood has based T-shirts in its Fall 2018 collection on the creations of two young designers, named Louise Gray and Rottingdean Bazaar.
The London house, which took Anthony Knight to court in 2012 for trademark and copyright infringement for copying some of Westwood’s famous punk orb logos and slogans, posted the following apology followed by the image of the original Rottingdean Bazaar T-shirt and the copied design side by side.
The red carpet has finally moved on from the time’s up blackout, but there have recently been some interesting pieces in the Givenchy and Elie Saab collections during Paris Fashion Week.
Claire Waight Keller, Givenchy designer in her sophomore season, has taken over the reins for Riccardo Tisci with a different mood, taking her inspiration from the 80’s Berlin. She turned the halls in the Paris Palace of Justice into a dark and moody maze, with models walking down in big curtains of black, slate and blue as spotlights hovered over them.
Waight Keller took inspiration from David Bowie, Stranger Things and Noomi Rapace. Waight Keller started the show with louche faux furs cinched with patent belts before turning on the sharp-cut dresses that would fit right in Germany ’83. Pencil skirts and oversized animal prints followed right behind, with both men and women in shiny trousers.
The men’s looks were mostly tailored, with the exception of the puffy white coat. The oversized equipment handled bags that were carried by the men will most likely cross over.
Jun Takahashi may or may not have discovered a solution for fashion. Takahashi has managed to create a collection that merges streetwear with athleisure and luxury. His Fall 2018 collection for Undercover is a major example of what many design houses should aspire to do.
The designer showed Undercover in a big white tent with clear plastic walls in the center of Paris. His fashion was in the very middle of things and not bouncing around the edges. Takahashi took much inspiration from college, as that is a time for experimentation.
Takahashi has figured out a way to blend all the elements of street style, comfort, youthfulness, nonchalance and cool, and he turned them into clothes that can be related to by anyone. He didn’t do too much and chose establishment over rebelliousness but synchronized the two in such a way that it worked out for the better.