Tag Archives: brands

Walmart stuns with new private fashion brands

Walmart has now made a massive shift to push towards online apparel to compete with Amazon. Walmart is betting on four new private fashion brands to push them to the front.

“Seeking higher margins via higher-priced goods, Walmart is looking to woo more affluent shoppers who buy technology and groceries at the chain but would typically walk past its fashion and beauty aisles,” Preston Bottomy, general manager of prestige beauty, said.

The brands launching for Walmart are Time and Tru for women, plus size label Terra & Sky, Wonder Nation for kids and also the relaunch of George, a brand exclusively for men.

Walmart, in the past, has struggled to find a good fashion niche in apparel beyond basic tee’s. As Amazon continues to spread in all categories, Walmart has started becoming more and more vulnerable to the online giant, as their competitor constantly betters price and convenience.

According to Matthew Kaness, the new executive in residence and vice president of Walmart US e-commerce, the retail brand is taking a more curated approach to enhancing its product mix across all categories.

Model who brought down Harvey Weinstein returns to runway

Ambra Battilana Gutierrez, the Italian model who helped bring down the movie mogul Harvey Weinstein by reporting him to the police back in 2015, is getting her career back on track.

Gutierrez will be taking the runway at the 2018 New York Fashion Week on Wednesday after having spent several years being rejected by designers after her allegation became public. She said in a recent interview that it became so hard for her to land a gig because of the incident.

“I had castings with Armani and Cavalli and Dsquared2 — these are the ones that really build your portfolio,” she said. “After that it was so difficult to even get normal brands to work with — it was a disaster.”

 

Real love don’t know how to talk ? @antoineverglas #Love

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Gutierrez states that the slip of her career caused her to develop depression and gain weight, hampering her modeling career.

“I saw so many shows with girls that looked exactly like me and nobody ever tried to send my photos out because it was so difficult to sell me because my name was bad,” she said. “It was impossible because (designers) didn’t want to hurt their brands.”

But now that Weinstein has been convicted of the allegations, work has finally been coming Gutierrez’s way, and she can finally get her career back on track.

Best shoes from Milan Men’s Fashion Week

Way back when, men’s shoes were all plain and practically the same. Now, the menswear world has started to embrace the sportswear trend, allowing footwear to become more casual.

Luxury now lies in the fabrication, versatility, techonology and detailing applied to every shoe. Milan Men’s Fashion Week was filled with some of the best shoes to date.

Santoni showcased Santoni classics while also reinterpreting them with some more casual proportions.

Brunello Cucinelli debuted runners in premium leather and also showed off hiking boots with luxe shearling linings.

Jimmy Choo showed off the Lucas, which this time around had a metal toe plate on the undersole with the brand’s logo etched into it.

Giuseppe Zanotti brought out a two-way biker/combat boot with zip-off which was done in butter soft leather. Other styles include sneakers and slippers with removable socks with an addition of a rainbow high-top sneaker where each panel had hand-applied color.

On the runway, crafted sneakers and snow boots took over at Zegna Couture. The shoes had the label’s triple X symbol. Laboratory inspired boots at Marni were so shiny people didn’t recognize it was made out of premium leather. Fendi produced a premium sock-boot, while at Versace, the collaboration with 2 Chainz on sneakers hit it off well.

Yxng Bane modeled for What We Wear

Up and coming menswear brand What We Wear has showcased their newest spring/summer 2018 collection at this year’s London Fashion Week Men’s. The brand also belongs to British artist Tinie Tempah.

@ww.wear LFW18 ???

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The collection was composed solely of solid silhouettes and was showcased with new East London rapper Yxng Bane. Yxng Bane modeled most of the collection.

The brand What We Wear was launched around this time last year and with Tempah’s luxe-sportswear aesthetic being brought up again this season. Utilitarian jackets, unnoticeable details and fully functional looks are featured throughout the whole collection.

LOOK 17 #AW18 #REALWORLD #WHATWEWEAR

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Yxng Bane, the young London rapper, is ready to take over this year. He has been spotted multiple times repping the brand on the streets, and the 21-year-old rapper consistently made good music last year. BBC 1xtra has posted him as an artist to look for on their “Hot For 2018” list.

Four female designers making a big impact in British menswear

As the menswear market continues to grow, several women have tried their hand at designing menswear instead of womenswear. Most notably, a number of London female menswear designers are bringing much needed talent and takes and turning them into profiting brands.

Grace Wales Bonner

Grace Wales Bonner graduated from Central St Martins back in 2014. She presented her first collection at Fashion East in 2015, and, that same year, she won Emerging Menswear designer of the year at the British Fashion Awards.

She made her debut at London Fashion Week Men’s in 2016 with her own label titled Wales Bonner. Most of her designs explore inspiration from European and African influences. Now, Bonner’s collections and shows are some of the most anticipated on the show calendars. Keep in mind, Bonner has yet to turn 27.

Lou Dalton

Dalton dropped out of school when she was 16 and began to learn her craft while working as an apprentice to a tailor, then she went on to study menswear at the Royal College of Art.

Dalton’s tailoring combined with her Shropshire roots make her clothes beautiful and extremely durable. Dalton’s collections are now some of the most highly sought after clothes. She has made capsule collections for Dover Street Market, Grenson, Liberty and Opening Ceremony. Dalton’s designs are available internationally on her online store.

Astrid Anderson

Anderson launched her own brand back in 2011 and has caught attention for her knack of remodeling the sports-luxe category. Her designs go far beyond a simple tracksuit. She is expertly able to blend urban influences with small feminine details to make clothes that challenge the gender norms.

She graduated from the Royal College of Art in 2010 and was able to get support from Fashion East and NEWGEN before making her official debut at London Fashion Week Men’s. Her celebrity base, including Drake, A$AP Rocky, and Rihanna, all adore her clothes.

Martine Rose

Rose, a 36-year-old designer, is one of London’s most original menswear designers. Her label, which is now 10 years old, has constantly been pushing boundaries.

Her designers effortlessly play with shape and proportion. Her designs are now being stocked at Barneys in New York, Dover Street Market and Matches fashion. Rose has also been added to the Balenciaga team to consult on its menswear line.

Menswear brands to recognize for the upcoming fashion week

As more and more top brands are opting to combine their menswear and womenswear shows and presenting their full collections during the busier womenswear season, the official menswear schedules have taken a toll and lost big fashion house names. London is now without Burberry and J.W. Anderson; Paris lost Balenciaga and Saint Laurent; Milan no longer has Gucci; New York missed out on Calvin Klein and Coach.

Even with the sparsity of superstar names this season, there will be no lack of talent. With such changes increasing, a new wave of menswear brands is set to benefit. As big brands leave, lesser known brands gain the space, time and attention. There are a number of menswear brands to take notice of before it’s too late: GmbH in Berlin, Grace Wales Bonner and Charles Jeffrey in London, Feng Chen Wang and Xander Zhou in China, and Avoc and Y/Project in Paris. These brands will soon become the future of men’s fashion.

The GmbH brand launched in 2016, and within a couple of months, the Berlin brand was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize. The brand will be showing in Paris for the second time on Jan. 16.

Charles Jeffrey recently had success at The Fashion Awards and will have his second standalone show at London Fashion Week Men’s. Grace Wales Bonner single-handedly brought the ideas and issues that surround black masculinity to the front of her LVMH Prize-winning label. Her next collection is set to debut tomorrow in London.

Avoc is a brand that has recently won the ANDAM Award’s Creative Brand Prize. The gender-neutral brand will show during Paris menswear week and is set to collaborate with Nike later in the year.

Xander Zhou has been on the London menswear schedule since the week emerged. Y/Project has grown its stockists almost 500% in over three years. The brand is set to show in Paris as well. Feng Chen Wang has opted to show in New York for its menswear show this season.

Four Scandinavian menswear labels to mark their stamp on 2018

Though European brands are at the center of high-end menswear, there is little recognition to European brands from countries like Denmark, Sweden and Norway. Here are four Scandinavian brands who will surely catch the eyes of the public this upcoming year.

Tiger of Sweden

This brand was founded back in 1903 in Uddevalla, Sweden as a tailoring house. The label went into a renewal process back in the early 1990s, focusing most of its efforts on modernization. Recently, Burberry alum and Swedish man Christoffer Lundman took the reins of the company. Today, the it’s a well-established brand that produces classic wear while offering slim-silhouette suiting and separates. Some styles they offer are the Lamonte wool check suit ($825), velvet blazer ($550) and a cotton striped Farrell button-down shirt ($170). All the looks are available at ssense.

Mismo

Mismo was established in 2006 and was based out of Copenhagen. This fashion brand offers accessories for men on the go. Most of the label’s collection includes a wide range of travel bags, including chic backpacks, totes and briefcases, it also has a wide selection of wallets, tech cases and belts. The brand uses a premium, durable canvas and leather to craft all of its pieces. The brand’s simple offerings are made to last a long time and be durable. Some notable pieces of the brand are a utility tote ($635), the MS Sprint backpack ($721) and MS Weekend bag ($485).

Stutterheim

Stutterheim was launched back in 2010, making it the youngest brand on this list. Alexander Stutterheim found his grandfather’s 1960s-era fisherman’s raincoat at an abandoned family barn, which gave him the inspiration to launch an outerwear company. Within just a couple of years, the brand’s waterproof handmade coats and jackets caught the attention of Barneys New York, earned the praise of Kanye West and even led to a collaboration with Jay Z– now the collection is available globally. Last month, the brand launched the Stutterheim x Marni capsule collection in partnership with the playful Italian brand. The collection includes a number of colorful coats (from $790).

Lindeberg

Lindeberg is a brand based out of Stockholm that has a passion for putting stylish tailoring into active wear, and it does so without taking away from functionality. The label was founded around 20 years ago and is available today in over 900 stores across the world. J. Lindeberg offers a range of clothing from slim-cut velvet pants and wool mohair blazers to high-performance ski and golf outwear. Some of the brand’s most notable pieces are the Crillon 2L Down Jacket ($800), Mixed Hybrid Jacket ($295) and Paclite Pants ($375).

Luxury brands step up their game with custom clothes

In recent news, a handful of luxury brands have been adding a new tool to their clothing, which is allowing customers to personalize their recent purchases. Brands such as Polo Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Burberry, Gucci and Louis Vuitton are taking part in the new idea with more brands to follow in the near future.

At the new Polo store in London, they have a whole floor dedicated to customization involving items like embroidered patches and monogrammed blazers. Similar ideas are occurring at other luxury stores. At Tommy Hilfiger, shoppers can customize any item in the store. At Burberry, they make it possible to monogram a scarf. Gucci lets you apply designs to jackets. Louis Vuitton allows customers to initial luggage.

According to a research study done by Deloitte, one out of three consumers were interested in personalized products, and 71 percent of them were ready to pay a premium for the addition. Around 15 percent of the survey takers were willing to pay a 40 percent increase in price for such customization.

Tammy Smulders, global managing director of Havas LuxHub (the media group’s division dedicated to fashion, luxury and lifestyle business), commented on specialization:

“Luxury consumers are increasingly expecting products that feel special and distinctive to them, such as monogrammed iPhone cases from Chaos Fashion. Equally, brands are using technology and data to segment their customers and provide the right kinds of products, services and brand communication.”

Technology will continue to drive this trend, according to José Neves, founder and CEO of online retailer Farfetch:

“Customization will be the next revolution in luxury. We wanted to find a way of offering luxury and bespoke products to an audience that’s increasingly knowledgeable about style and quality.”

Deloitte’s research shows that the labels who don’t end up using such elements risk losing revenue and customer loyalty. “Brands are transforming how they interact with current and future customers to provide personalized brand experiences that make people feel special,” says Smulders.

Luxury brands are being forced to take notice of the number of consumers willing to spend extra money to customize clothes, and they must begin to explore the on-demand aspect of personalization.

Instagram fashion brand googled more than top designer brands

Google has released its Year in Search 2017 data and has highlighted the top ten most Google-searched brands in 2017. While there were still many of the top names on the list, some including Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Supreme, the fourth most searched fashion brand in the United States was Instagram fashion brand Fashion Nova. The affordable label beat out luxury brands like Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana.

The brand could likely credit its success to some of the biggest names in all different categories sporting the brand, likely influencing their millions of followers. Some names such Cardi B, Nicki Minaj, Amber Rose, and Blac Chyna, have all posted the brand on their own Instagram feed, and even more recently, Toya Wright and Tammy Rivera were also spotted wearing the same dress from Fashion Nova. Most of the items on Fashion Nova’s site are all under the price of $100, making it significantly cheaper than bigger luxury brands.

The brand isn’t completely clean of dirt as it had its fair share of controversy over the past year, the brand was allegedly accused of using size 2 models to promote plus-size clothing.

The full list of fashion brands is as followed:

  1. Gucci
  2. Louis Vuitton
  3. Supreme
  4. Fashion Nova
  5. Chanel
  6. Yves Saint Laurent
  7. Christian Dior
  8. Dolce & Gabbana
  9. Valentino
  10. Moschino

Paris extends men’s fashion week to six days in 2018

Paris is now extending its Men’s Fashion Week from five days in January to six days, starting in 2018. The schedule change was made among the increase of big fashion designers leaving the New York show in order to find bigger stages. This year, the menswear shows will start on Tuesday, January 16 adding a numerous amount of new arrivals, and will be ending in January 21, according to the schedule released by French fashion’s governing party, Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

The opening day for Paris Men’s Fashion Week brings will have three new additions, Palomo Spain, Parisian label Nïuku, and GmbH collective. Dunhill London is also set to present its newest collection in Paris this season on the final day of men’s fashion week.

A big missing name is the French capital brand Balenciaga, the brand has decided to skip out on menswear and is going to stage a coed show for both menswear and womenswear in March, during Paris’s womenswear Fashion Week.  Vetements is currently on the way in on the list for Paris Men’s Fashion Week. The label has yet to be currently featured on the official schedule.

Paris Men’s Fashion Week: Provisional schedule

Tuesday, January 16, 2018

17:00 ― Palomo Spain

18:00 ― Nïuku

19:00 ― Namacheko

20:00 ― GmbH

Wednesday, January 17, 2018

10:00 ― Julien David

11:00 ― Off-White

12:00 ― Facetasm

13:30 ― Icosae

14:30 ― Lemaire

15:30 ― Y/Project

16:30 ― Walter Van Beirendonck

18:00 ― Haider Ackermann

19:00 ― OAMC

20:00 ― Valentino

 

Thursday, January 18, 2018

 

10:00 ― AMI Alexandre Mattiussi

11:00 ― Issey Miyake Men

12:30 ― Rick Owens

13:30 ― Angus Chiang

14:30 ― Louis Vuitton

15:30 ― Sean Suen

16:30 ― Boris Bidjan Saberi

17:30 ― Yohji Yamamoto

19:00 ― Dries van Noten

20:00 ― Pigalle Paris

 

Friday, January 19, 2018

 

10:00 ― Junya Watanabe Man

11:00 ― Maison Margiela

12:00 ― Ann Demeulemeester

13:00 ― Juun J.

14:00 ― Acne Studios

15:00 ― Hed Mayner

16:00 ― Cerruti 1881

17:00 ― Comme des Garçons Homme Plus

18:00 ― Alexander McQueen

20:00 ― Berluti

 

Saturday, January 20, 2018

 

10:00 ― Sacai

11:00 ― Etudes

12:00 ― Avoc

13:00 ― Thom Browne

14:00 ― Andrea Crews

15:00 ― Dior Homme

16:00 ― Wooyoungmi

17:00 ― Balmain Homme

18:00 ― Henrik Vibskov

19:00 ― White Mountaineering

20:00 ― Hermès

 

Sunday, January 21, 2018

 

10:00 ― Officine Générale

11:00 ― Lanvin

12:00 ― Agnès b.

13:00 ― Sankuanz

14:00 ― Rynshu

15:00 ― Enfants Riches Déprimés

16:00 ― Paul Smith

17:00 ― Christian Dada

18:00 – Dunhill London

19:00 ― To be confirmed

20:00 ― Kenzo ― AFP-Relaxnews

Giambattista Valli launching an active wear collection

Giambattista Valli will be launching an activewear capsule collection in the coming year and is even gearing up to make a retail push, marking the first steps to grow his label under its new partnership with the billionaire family Pinault.

Giambattista Valli is a designer more commonly known for his flirty cocktail dresses and sculptural evening gowns, but in recent seasons has shifted into a brand with a more casual presence. In recent shows, he has brought out taffeta jackets with Nike running tights for fall and has introduced logo-printed denim for spring 2018.

Valli will be added to the list of luxury brands trying to get a profit out of the increasingly growing athletic garment market. According to Euromonitor, sports-inspired footwear has increased by 10 percent and sports-inspired apparel has increased by 6 percent in 2016.

By the end of his decade-long partnership with Italian luxury outerwear firm Moncler as the creative director of its Gamme Rouge line, Valli will showcase his new namesake activewear collection of 50 to 60 pieces, including coats, puffer jackets, sweatshirts, and tracksuits, to customers in January.

“It’s a capsule collection where we will express a more functional side of the brand, while remaining faithful to the atmosphere of contemporary chic that is part of its DNA,” Valli told WWD in an exclusive interview.”

“I love the idea of introducing new materials to active wear by applying the house’s know-how in handling certain fabrics to this segment,” he added. “It’s extremely Valli, extremely sophisticated, extremely luxurious — but on the other hand, today’s customer mixes Uniqlo with luxury brands.”

The base prices for the collection will range from 1,303 USD to 2,962 USD. The line is expected to be dropping in June of 2018 to go along with the pre-fall season. The collection will be a color-coded label, it will be sold in Giambattista Valli boutiques and select specialty stores, and will even be displayed on the catwalk alongside the main collection.

Ever since Artémis, the private investment of the Pinault family, took a stake in Maison Valli in June, the two companies have been devising a plan to develop the brand into an all-around franchise, Valli said.

“We really want to develop the brand in every direction. This is just the start,” he explained. With the recent expiration of his contract with Italian fur-maker Ciwifurs for his own fur coats and jackets, Valli has now brought all production and distribution in-house.”

Maison Valli was founded back in 2004 and has produced haute couture, the Giambattista Valli and Giamba ready-to-wear lines has gained quick recognition as a very important fashion and luxury player, dressing some of the best-named socialites and celebrities like Amal Clooney, Julianne Moore, Nicole Kidman, and Diane Kruger.

“Over 12 years as an independent label, I created a niche for this house. It’s nice to be able to apply that formula, that magic, to products that are a little unexpected for the brand,” Valli said.

“I think today, the concept of luxury has become a little duty-free everywhere. It’s always the same thing. If you’ve been to one store, you’ve seen them all. And I love this idea of slightly more individual, dedicated spaces that each have their own personality,” he said.

“With the arrival of a French family, the brand has entered France’s heritage. The longer-term ambition is to turn it into an exceptional and historic brand,” Valli said. “We really want to explore the brand, to give it the widest scale possible while keeping that sense of privilege that you have when you approach it.”

Simon Spurr and his return to men’s fashion

About a week ago, Eidos had announced their new creative director which rung a couple familiar bells. The name was none other than Simon Spurr, who back in 2012 was among one of the driving forces in American fashion. Spurr help top design jobs in the past at Calvin Klien and Ralph Lauren.  Simon Spurr has been a recipient of a CFDA nomination for best menswear designer for his eponymous brand. His brand was a hit in both critical favorite and enjoyed retail success. But two days after getting the industry stamp of approval, Spurr walked away from his label after a major dispute with his business partner. After this fallout, Spurr took jobs at Savile Row house Kent & Curwen, and then Gieves & Hawkes, but somehow nothing seemed to be like a long-term job. Last year he started a footwear brand called March NYC which was supposedly the official staple of his return to fashion but has yet to make any magic of his golden days.

Spurr has officially taken the brand over from the hands of Antonio Ciongoli, who was taking the brand into a perennial insider-favorite for over five years. With all the fuss about Spurr officially coming back into the limelight, GQ style decided to get an exclusive interview with Simon Spurr. Below are a couple of the best quotes from the given interview.

“What made you get back into the fashion world?”

 

Spurr answered with, “I mean obviously fashion’s going through an interesting time if you’re looking at it from a more sartorial perspective—we’re in a sportswear and streetwear moment. So I’ve definitely taken inspiration from those other projects I was talking about, and obviously working on my own line of boots got me back into it. And I still love what I do, I still have a passion for fashion, and I have a lot of people around me saying, you have to get back into it, don’t do it for yourself do it for us. [laughs] So there was a ton of support around me getting back, and I just took so long because I was trying to find the right fit. Now, for one of the rare occasions in my career, with the people from Isaia I’m working with true craftsmanship and precision. I built my own brand’s reputation for quality and execution. So, to have the freedom that Isaia has offered me has been a great opportunity.”

 

“Where do you plan on taking Eidos?”

 

“I had a pretty clear brief from [Isaia CEO] Gianluca [Isaia] to keep the brand independent, but elevate it a little bit so that the Eidos customer can move up to Isaia when they have that disposable income. So I think the collection itself will have a little more color in it, it’ll still be very wearable, but the way it’ll be styled will be a little more European. And then my reference points will hopefully bring a cultural aspect to it. In the time off I’m heavily influenced by artists like Carmen Herrera and Sol Lewitt, and the kind of methodology and the mathematics behind their approach to creating their work. I want to underscore the intellectuality of the brand and increase that out-of-the-box thinking.”

 

“What does being a New York designer mean to you?”

“I probably only know how to be a New York designer. Next year is my 20-year anniversary in New York. But New York is a multicultural epicenter of the world, it’s a very democratic kind of environment—I don’t mean politically—where you have to be very aware of everyone that’s here, consumer demands and needs and taste levels, and it’s international and very culturally saturated. For me it’s one of the best places to be. I think American menswear in the past has gotten a bit of a bad rap, it’s been so commercial, but now Thom Browne’s been on the scene for a good number of years, you’ve got Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, and I think people are starting to embrace smaller brands as well as consumers look away from overly-distributed brands. They’re looking for smaller, more independent brands, which is one of the things that attracted me to Eidos. So I guess New York for me is about having an international point of view. I don’t know if a Parisian designer would say the same thing. And one big difference I’d say as a European in America is you can still get things done here. You can still meet a stranger in a bar and they’ll open up their rolodex and help you out and make connections within 30 minutes of talking to them. That doesn’t happen in Europe. Sorry to coin a phrase, but it is still the land of opportunity. Could I have achieved what I achieved at Simon Spurr had I done that in London? Probably not.”

Bruce Pask: his personal style and job

Bruce Pask is a name that should relatively ring a bell in the fashion industry, specifically in the menswear category. Pask was named the men’s fashion director at the New York store Bergdorf Goodman back in 2014. But before he got the job at Bergdorf Goodman, Pask worked as the men’s fashion director at T magazine and as an editor for GQ magazine before that. Before his professional career kicked off Pask worked for Gap and ESPRIT on summer breaks during college. A position that requires the employee to understand the best men’s clothing and accessories for years and requires them to spend a good amount of time on the floors of the three-floor store fits no one more perfectly than Pask.

“I work in the store and my office is a block away,” he says. “I’m here every day, I interact with customers every day. We have the most direct line to the customer by being here and being available.”

While Pask job on the floor in an impressive Manhattan shop on a daily basis may seem like a small task, Pask is known globally for his own personal style, most notably during the biannual men’s fashion show circuit. Pask is glorified for his ability to tweak and modify classic pieces just enough to make people turn their heads twice at him. Where most fashion icons are content with showing off the season’s flashiest, over the top designer pieces, Pask can make an ordinary look or piece seem like an unexpected gift for the fashion world.

Currently, Pask is obsessing over big pants. He said a few months ago he woke up and felt like he needs to wear what he referred to as “fashion pants”. “I woke up and was like, I need big pants,” he says. “I’m felt like that was what’s going to make me feel more jazzed about what I’m wearing.”

“It’s really broad in its interpretation,” he points out. “They can be denim, worsted wool, they can be flat-front, they can be pleated, they can be cropped, they can be long. I don’t care, I just want them big.”

While big pants may not be most men’s go to, for Pask, he backs up his statement by fitting them into his uniform. Pask combines the trousers, which are usually on a dark palette like navy, black, and gray, and adds them with a mix of menswear staples like turtleneck sweaters and heavily detailed outerwear.

The idea of wearing a uniform for me, I’m out the door in half an hour.” he says. “I don’t spend a ton of time thinking about it, that’s what the point of a uniform should be. It’s iterations. I’d rather spend time thinking about the store and our work than what I look like that day.”

In his new role, Pask has two concerns, those being shopping for himself, and shopping for his customers. “I’m very clear about what I like and what works for me. There’s a balance of a tailored piece with something casual so there’s this mixture of like slightly dressy in a casual presentation. There are a lot of things in the market that I see and that I love, but that doesn’t necessarily mean I’m going to buy it for myself.”

Being a men’s fashion director requires a good bit of time on the road to get the best of the best. Pask often travels with just a carry-on, but he does check a bag for month-long trips. Pask has hug himself deep in the menswear scene. Bergdorf as a store has taken the streetwear in with open arms as well.

“I think social media has had a huge influence on menswear, in that it has exposed the general population, certainly men who may not have had a big interest in fashion, has made this information so readily available. It’s sort of easy to look at and absorb it, distill what’s interesting. In general, the populous is much more informed,” he says.

While adding streetwear may make his job a bit harder, it definitely will make his life a whole lot more exciting. “I love being here and being in the store,” he says.

Zara heading in a gender-neutral direction

Fast fashion brand Zara has hinted at the fact that some of their pieces can be might be gender-neutral.

The fashion retailer has yet to make an official announcement regarding unisex clothing, but some shoppers have noticed that some of their clothes are being modeled by men and women online. A $209 checkered coat is advertised as being on the Zara Man, even though it is being modeled by a woman and also appearing in the women’s coat section. Another long-checkered coat at $209, that is also advertised for the men’s collection but is being modeled by both genders.  This garment also appears in the men’s and women’s outerwear sections.

This wouldn’t be the first time a billion-dollar brand to embrace the gender-neutral clothing. Back in 2016, Zara released a unisex line named “Ungendered” which had eight wardrobe pieces such as hoodies, tracksuit bottoms and t-shirts, all in neutral colors. The collection was met with mixed reviews which some shoppers praising the collection and others criticizing the clothes for being too plain.

“When will we move past this notion that genderless clothing simply = plain t-shirts/sweatpants? why is this “bold”?,” tweeted Tyler Ford, associate editor for Condé Nast’s new LGBTQ platform, “Them”.

Some other customers were upset as well, with one consumer saying the line was “literally just male coded lounge wear”. Others went as far as to suggest Zara should’ve added more subversive options like skirts.

Zara wasn’t the only major fashion retailer to follow the forward-thinking idea. M&M launched a unisex denim line and John Lewis stopped labeling their clothes for “girls” and “boys” on their children clothes.

Regarding the recent modeling images on their website, Zara told The Independent “this isn’t something that Zara would provide a comment for.”

You can still shop Zara’s ungendered collection on their website and select stores. There is no clear indication if Zara will be releasing a statement regarding the images on their site, for now, we can just indulge in the fascinating news happening around the fashion world.

How top fashion brands recruit

The days of mass sending your applications to nearly every single brand hiring just to try to get an entry-level job are being numbered. With top fashion brands looking for the most qualified and creative, they have now turned to building relationships with schools and companies to funnel their search.

If you would want a higher chance to work at Tommy Hilfiger and their design headquarters then you should consider applying to Kingston University. The students there have collaborated on multiple projects with the PVH-owned brand. Brioni, a company managed by Kering, has a partnership with London’s Royal College of Art that holds a talent competition each year that helps them recruit interns.

These are just a couple examples of how many top luxury fashion labels are developing programs with some of the best universities. The feeder programs such as, Kering’s program with the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at the London College of Fashion, to Sup de Luxe at Paris’ École des Dirigeants et des créateurs d’entrepise, that offers a master’s and bachelor’s degree in global luxury management. ECF is financially supported by Richemont-owned Cartier. These feeder programs are now the best way possible to land an entry-level position at some of the top fashion brands.

“It’s more about partnerships these days,” says Karen Harvey, who is an executive recruiter who assigns candidates in positions on the creative and business side of fashion. “Through these long-term relationships, companies get to meet with the students more than once or twice. It’s not just about glancing through their portfolios.”

With different schools offering different opportunities with a variety of brands. There is some list of formal and informal partnerships between labels and some of the top fashion schools.

Kering works with brands such as Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, Alexander Mcqueen, and Brioni. Kering has formal partnerships with HEC in Paris and London College of Fashion’s Centre for Sustainable Fashion. The partnership with HEC they sponsor the ‘Kering Luxury Certificate’. This program has seminars led by Kering managers and even holds visits to Kering brands. The program ends with an annual competition judged by the HEC professors and Kering directors. In 2017, there were 39 participants admitted into the program and according to Kering, this ultimately leads to appointments within the group. The program with London College of Fashion’s Centre for Sustainable Fashion has a master’s course in sustainability. It also has the annual Kering award for Sustainable Fashion, which is a prize and also could include an internship placement. They also have an annual talk given by a Kering executive.

“A key objective of the group is to attract, recruit and develop the best people for every aspect of our activities, wherever they may be,” a spokesperson for the group told Business of Fashion. “We want to create an environment where each of us is encouraged to learn, to grow, to fulfill our potential and to have a positive impact. Diversity in the workplace — of gender, nationality, age, background, sexual orientation and talent — enriches us all and is a key driver of creativity and growth.”

LVMH works with Louis Vuitton, Céline, Givenchy, Dior, Loewe, and Marc Jacobs. LVMH has plenty of partnerships that vary. They recruit from traditional design schools including Institut Français de la Mode, Central Saint Martins and Parsons School of Design. At the ESSEC business school near Paris, students have a chance to work on projects with an LVMH brand manager. On the creative side, LVMH recruit’s interns and entry-level designers from Central Saint Martins and Parsons School of Design. LVMH launched ‘Sustainability and Innovation in Luxury’ in 2016 which is a partnership with Central Saint Martins to find “cutting-edge solutions to address future sustainability and innovation in luxury”.

“The immediate benefit for a brand is the ability to learn from the talent and to be able to hire the individual,” Burak Cakmak, the dean of fashion of Parsons, says. “But it will always be a small number of students who achieve that. No matter if you are directly hired, what matters is what you have on your CV and diversity is critical.”

PVH works with top brands Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger. PVH has a 10-week summer internship program that involves 300 to 350 interns at its New York location. They also hold similar programs with its European locations as well. PVH has a history of hiring 20 to 25 percent of its interns each year. Calvin Klein hires 50 new interns each semester. “They do real work,” says Dave Kozel, executive vice president and chief human resources officer at PVH.

Local Malaysian menswear brands get a boost of confidence

Sultan KL, Serve All Mankind, and Cheesedenim Works made their debut at Isten Suria KLCC a month ago. While their small shared retail space at the site seemed like a small achievement, to these menswear labels, it is just the right step to their big dreams of becoming the next top labels in the fashion industry.

Small and independent fashion entrepreneurs, getting space in a retail atmosphere like the one at the international departmental store like Isetan is not an easy task. Bur to Konsvltan, nothing is impossible for the homeboys.

Konsvltan Sdn Bhd is a group of members who provide a platform for local menswear brands to expand. The members of the team include Sauffi Roslan, Ammar Abdillah, Hafidz Fazly Zaharin, Zahlan Zain, Shabir Ahshrup, Hasnizam Mohamad, Hasri Abd Rani, and Rashdan Rosly. They all fall between the ages of 26 and 44.

“We’re the people behind the scene. We’re the outsiders looking in. We observe the community, the fashion movement and as a result of our observations, we try to push local ideas to the global audience,” says Konsvltan founder and chief executive officer Rashdan Rosly.

Konsvltan is a continuation of Sultan KL which is the brand Rosly created in 2011. Konsvltan got its chance because of the lack of originality amongst the local independent fashion brands.”

“It all started with a vision that I had 10 years ago of a conglomerate among close friends who share the same interests and a dream to produce practical, long-lasting men’s clothing.

“Isetan is like the go-to mall during our younger days. So, from buying goods there to placing our own brands, it is a dream come true.”

“In terms of brands, it’s hard to find one that stands out nowadays. The scene is saturated with half-baked brands copying other brands, or those which launch so-called limited editions or streetwear collections, without a thorough understanding of streetwear culture.”

“And that’s why we came into the picture. We want to curate quality brands that offer something unique or can inculcate a culture in which the people are confident to be different.”

Besides being a stand out brands, the brands selected by Konsvltan all share the value in cultures and garment-making.

Kuala Lumpur-based denim maker Cheesedenim Works has paved its way into the industry for 10 years and is well known for its finely crafted denim. Sultan KL is known for melting the gap between traditional and modern wear by introducing various Malaysian or Malay Archipelago influences like the batik or single stitching of benang emas. Serve All Mankind makes vintage-inspired clothes while also using the same workmanship by using vintage machines.

“Serve All Mankind is our in-house brand that gives a modern touch to pieces inspired by the good old days.

“We change the silhouette, fabric or styling, but we keep the way it is done intact”, says Rosly, “We don’t compromise on the quality of fabrics and materials. We source fabrics and materials from Japan, the United States, Thailand and Indonesia. We’re very selective and we choose only the ones choose that can be turned into garments that can last longer or can be passed down to the next generation. And we make sure all the brands that we curate speak the same language when it comes to standards.”

Konsvltan is expected to be adding even more local brands to add to the departmental store landscape.

“We’re launching another in-house brand, Gedio (active wear) soon. We’re also helping SangatStyle (a big player in the independent fashion scene) in rebranding and raising its standard to prop it to a greater height,” says Rosly.

New trends for mens fashion during Autumn-Winter seasons

It’s starting to seem more and more noticeable that the 1970’s has been heavily influencing the men’s fashion scene. Even with warmer temperature than usual, fashion labels have been filling the racks with many seasonal offerings any man can appreciate. With more trends being noticeable I have created a

To start the list of new trends off, the somewhat dull color brown has been making a huge comeback. With Gucci, who arguably started the 70’s trend, having used colors like brown and camel in the past few seasons, now has other big Italian labels hopping on the brown bus. Brands like, Ermenegildo Zegna, Canali and Brunello Cucinelli, have all been smashing the style too.

Up next, the color orange has recently been popping up down many catwalks. Orange has been a more provocative trend this season, being featured amongst the more youthful labels such as Dior Homme, Etro, Marni, and Ports 1961. The fashion inclined youngsters could be seen wearing orange jackets, trousers, or even the full out all orange look. For the most part, though, the orange touch will be displayed with tees and sweaters.

Recently, a move away from the skinny look, which took over much of the 2000’s has pushed its way through, starting with tops and jackets and not pants or trousers. The boxy jackets were storming through Paris, London, New York, and Milan. Brands like Balenciaga, H&M, Paul Smith, and COS, have all contributed to kick-starting this trend. Balenciaga’s Autumn-Winter show had the biggest take of the trend with square shoulders, which will most likely be the biggest influence when the trend goes full mainstream. COS has the most affordable collection for this trend.

It’s beginning to be loose all over with, quite literally, all the major labels sending models down the runways with flowing bottoms. mid-rise and high-rise bottoms have been on the rise this season. The advantage of being looser means the comfort level goes through the roof. Zegna, E. Tautz, Marni, COS, Topman, and Zara, all have their own styles of the loose trousers.

Incoming, Corduroy is making a major comeback. Corduroy was a big part of the catwalk this season. With most labels incorporating corduroy jackets, or corduroy trousers, luxury brands such as Prada and Officine Generale have turned all their attention to having all-corduroy suits. The biggest noticeable part of this trend was the different colors brands were offering. Giorgio Armani, Hermes and more, were offering burgundy, blue, grey and other sophisticated colors to add a more ordinary workwear feel.

Menswear Brands and Sites Worth Shopping

Admittedly, sometimes closets face a lot of neglect, and over time it develops its own label homogeneity. It’s never a bad thing to throw in some new players, every once in a while.

Here are eight brands to add variety to your line-up.

Apolis

The brand name translates to “Global Citizen.” It promotes a socially motivated lifestyle, empowering communities worldwide. Oh yeah, and they also have pretty nice clothing.

http://www.apolisglobal.com/
http://www.apolisglobal.com/

Need Supply Co.

A beautifully curated space located in Richmond, Virginia, Need Supply mixes renown brands with independent designers from the U.S. and foreign soil.

The credo: “a well designed product can have a very real and tangible effect on our everyday lives.”

http://needsupply.com/
http://needsupply.com/

Band of Outsiders

When you have a former hollywood agent as the creative face behind a brand, you can surely expect unique takes on American classics. The high end clothing label based out of Los Angeles is known for its modern yet defiant looks.

http://www.bandofoutsiders.com/
http://www.bandofoutsiders.com/

ASOS

With outstandingly huge product line offerings across menswear – over 60,000 independent brands and own label – ASOS has no shortage of sartorial goodness. The online fashion retailer stands as one of the UK’s largest.

All Saints

Ruth La Ferla, of the New York Times, describes the brand’s identity as having a

“brooding aesthetic… built on the fusion of modern technology and the crudely mechanized cosmos of the late Victorian age.”

If that doesn’t pique your interest in the British retailer, then it’s a fairly good thing the list doesn’t end here.

Credit: Steve Russell
Credit: Steve Russell

UNIONMADE

Priding itself on well-made and aesthetically classic products, UNIONMADE is an independent menswear shop offering top of the line brands in casual and fine clothing.

http://unionmadegoods.com/
http://unionmadegoods.com/

Rogue Territory

As another menswear brand coming out of California, Rogue Territory caters to the person interested in the subtleties. It separates itself through its handcrafted quality that is almost reminiscent of a bespoke fit.

http://www.rogueterritory.com/
http://www.rogueterritory.com/

Wings + Horns

The young menswear label is a Canadian project that attributes much influence not only to its home landscape, but also to the Japanese’s approach to details. Given its deliberate thought to fabrics, it’s no wonder the brand has made itself quite popular in the world of men’s fashion.