Tag Archives: designers

Japanese fashion ends the year right

With the holidays passing, the Japanese fashion industry has its own separate reason to celebrate. With the year coming to a close, Japan had a chance to reveal amazing home-grown talent locally at one of the most prestigious ceremonies.

The Mainichi Fashion Grand Prix was first introduced back in 1963 to shine light on excellent local fashion brands and has, in recent years, become a way to show consumers who is up and coming and who to keep an eye on. The ceremony, which took place on Nov. 30th this year, awarded the most prestigious Grand Prix honor to the label Hyke, while the Newcomer Award went to an up and coming brand called Yuima Nakazato.

Hyke is a brand which is designed by a husband and wife duo. Hideaki Yoshihara and Yukiko Ode are the co-owners of the brand which was established four years ago. Hyke was not their first brand– many longtime fashion aficionados can trace the duo back to their previous label “Green” which ran from 1998 to 2009.

Hyke is a minimalist brand that entails obsession with small details. The first few seasons the brand came out with were flooded with white and military green, with few to no dazzling pieces. The newest collection has a couple of pieces with fringes or a few extra buttons, but the whole aesthetic of the brand stays the same. The brand is deeply rooted in menswear tailoring and long silhouettes.

The Newcomer Award winner, Nakazato, has a very different train of thought when it comes to fashion. His aesthetic is inspired by new technology. His designs are less worried about weareablity and more about testing the murky relationship between advanced technology and fashion.

Yuima Nakazato is a graduate of the royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp master’s program. Nakazato first received accolades for designing leather boots that can be unzipped into completely flat parts. After a couple of jobs in costume design, he was asked to be a guest designer by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris in 2016. Nakazato became the second Japanese to present on the Haute Couture schedule, and he impressed with a seamless piece constructed of thousands of “units” which were printed on holographic film.

While neither of the Japanese companies are household names yet, both of the labels’ futures seem bright and will undoubtedly bring more exciting content that will reach the entire fashion world.

American Boy: Katama’s All-American Spring 2016 Collection Revealed

Oh say can you see… the Katama Men’s Spring 2016 Collection? While Independence Day was a few weeks back, the 17 looks of this all-American line will have you saying “God bless America.” Katama embraces a utilitarian-casual feel dating back with fits seemingly more appropriate for a number of decades prior.

 

Details like olive greens, old-fashioned high-hemmed shorts and tighter fitting polos parallel a new age Captain America. The refreshing addition of Chucks, Vans and loose tanks compliment the 40s-esque vibe of a majority of the collection’s pieces.

 

The models stand confidently ahead stars and stripes at what appears to be a trendy rooftop… most likely with a pool somewhere in close proximity. The line celebrates the male body with items that one might consider less than masculine. Tighter fits and shorter shorts may appear extremely dated to some, but I say, hey, if you’ve got a body, flaunt it!
Take a look at the Katama’s Americana-themed Spring 2016 collection below:

 

Katama Men's RTW Spring 2016

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Maison Margiela’s Men’s RTW Spring 2016 For the Modern Man

Maison Margiela’s Men’s RTW Spring 2016 evokes royalty. With both ancient and futuristic essence, the spring line of menswear celebrates the classic yet fashion-forward man. The menswear seen in the collection is for the dapper, non-conformist man on the go. Pieces like light rust-colored trench coats, monotone glittered suits, leather buckled vests, and sheer muscle-tee like tops with graphic detailing stand out amongst the more conventional menswear collections.

The models rock studded boots and Birkenstock-like Roman sandals — a refreshing blend of seemingly timeless Western looks. The overall looks have a slight feminine feel, and each item of clothing could be transitional between genders. Rich coppers, onyxes, navies, beiges, and cornflower blues make their way throughout the collection — very atypical for a spring look, but it most definitely works.

 

The brand posted an image of their Spring 2016 models to Twitter:

 

Antonio Marras at Milan Men’s Fashion Week

via uomo-moderno.com
via uomo-moderno.com

An ode to fine tailoring, master sewing techniques and a tribute to his father was how this show started for Antonio Marras. The collection was filled with mixing fabrics and subtle colors into singular pieces with touches on modern design and flare.

The collection started with a white polka dot pattern on a deep navy suit combination and followed by a white shirt with a print of his father in a pinstripe suit. That was the start of the tribute from the son, which was shortly after followed by a double breasted coat that featured two different color block and fabric combinations with the chest and sleeves.

The tailoring was so detailed that on that piece it was possible to see the stitch line as one fabric changing to the other. Further showing fine design techniques was a jersey cardigan which transitioned from a gray color to a charcoal blue plaid pattern.

Turtle neck sweaters had various designs and patterns including rugby stripes both in regular and cropped versions of the same design while Fair Isle patterns in sweaters brought some history back into the collection with a traditional feel.

The tribute didn’t stop there because almost every design had some sort of pattern, fabric combination, print or modernization of a classic design from the past. That included having suit pants conceptualized from a sporty fabric held up by drawstrings instead of belts. An original makeover for a design that has been the norm since it can be remembered.

Two pieces stood out because of the fabric combinations with one of them being a cropped leather motorcycle jacket that had pinstripe suit sleeves. However, the most intriguing item from this collection was a double breasted jacket that included three different materials. With a felt fabric going to a glen plaid wool and ending with a white shearling.

The ultimate homage didn’t come from the clothing though in this show, it came when all the tailors sitting behind their sewing machines stood up and put on their still torn and unfinished blazers and walked out down the runway. A fitting end to a tribute collection from son to father.

via uomo-moderno.com
via uomo-moderno.com