Tag Archives: New York

Supreme nominated for one of the biggest award’s in American fashion

The CFDA Awards is the closest you can get to the Oscar’s for the fashion. The CFDA Awards is set to celebrate the best American designs. Last night the nominations for Menswear Designer of the Year were announced, and they include Thom Browne, Tom Ford, Raf Simons for Calvin Klein, Virgil Abloh for Off-White and New York hype brand Supreme.

It has come to many as a surprise that a skate brand has picked up a CFDA nomination. It is odd because only Public School has been named a winner for the award that isn’t one of the big label brands. But Supreme has done nothing that Public School has. They don’t put on runway shows nor are their designers helping out with other big label brands. Instead, Supreme’s most desirable items are graphic hoodies and T-shirts while collaborating with other brands like Public Enemy.

Supreme in the past has ripped off big brands wholesale in the past but lately has been trying to get a foot closer to the giants by taking a big investment from the Carlyle Group, collaborating with Louis Vuitton and opening up a new store in New York City.

In a statement by Steven Kolb, head of CFDA, he started urging voters to consider a wider pool of brands that they had in the past. “We truly want the event to celebrate the full creative spectrum and richness of American fashion,” Kolb reportedly wrote. “Just think of how much fashion is changing, and the diversity of our industry. Designers with broad cultural backgrounds and political ideas are expressing their experiences and beliefs in their collections. Their work deserves greater acknowledgment, acceptance, and visibility.”

Zadig & Volataire bring street French twist to New York Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week usually encapsulates bedlam, but for one French label, it’s very very different. An hour before the Zadig & Voltaire’s runway show, models, dressers, hair and makeup stylists were still prepping to make sure the show ran smoothly.

“I’m a perfectionist,” said Cecilia Bönström, 47, the brand’s artistic director.  “Even though I have a creative job, I like everything to be really clear; I like to follow a schedule.”

Zasig & Voltaire is a French brand that prides itself on offering styles that are filled with streetwise edge and easiness.

“This season, my message is to confirm that Zadig & Voltaire is the contemporary rock ‘n’ roll brand,” Bönström explained. “For me, the girls are very delicate but, at the same time, very rock. There are a lot of legs, a lot of skin. There are leather and knitwear with perfect, sexy cocktail dresses.”

This year, Zadig & Voltaire is celebrating its 20th anniversary, a benchmark that is rarely ever achieved, especially in luxury fashion. With fashion fluctuating now that more of the spending habits have shifted, many labels are struggling to keep a grip on the fashion world. The reason Zadig & Voltaire’s does so well is that even when there are trends coming and going, the company sticks to its core aesthetic and value, something the label’s founder, Thierry Gillier, learned very early on:

“When I came to America, on Madison Avenue, it was very difficult. Everything was more classic than what we were showing. Slowly, that changed. The look today is very inspired by the street. For me, it was obvious that the fashion business would change. The clothes were very stiff and rigid, and I wanted to make it more relaxed.”

Brooke Shields joins the fashion world

Brooke Shields is an actress, model and author who has spent most of her life growing up in the fashion world. This very reason was why she wanted to add another title to her long resume.

Shields is going to be designing a collection for QVC called Brooke Shields Timeless. It will be available to see on Feb. 15 but won’t be purchasable until Mar. 14. The actress will be on-air showing off her creations, which she got with the help of the KBL Group International, a New York-based apparel company.

The actress is planning on previewing her apparel and accessories collection to media outlets at The Beekman in New York on Wednesday evening.

Shields has shown that she is a hands-on designer by having a say in every aspect of her collection. She has an office at KBL and was often up there, late at night, e-mailing back and forth with her partners. The 52-year-old actress elaborated:

“I’m involved in every button, every zipper, every seam, every hem and every pocket. The whole thing is initiated by an aesthetic I have, and working with the manufacturer and QVC themselves. They have a great deal of input. What’s been so refreshing is they [QVC and KBL] have really consulted me on everything.”

Shields has been approached by companies before, but they were only interested in her name and refused to listen to her input. Doug Howe, chief merchandising officer for QVC Group, had a different reaction:

“When we first heard Brooke speak about her collection, we were blown away by her passion and her attention to even the tiniest detail. Each and every piece of this line is special to Brooke and she’s had her hand in every design decision, from stitch, colors to prints. We feel confident that her excitement will appeal to our customers and that her stories will inspire them.”

Shields continued:

“This has been a cumulative effort over the years on my part. Every show that I’ve ever done, every television show, every Broadway show, there’s a whole fit process and it doesn’t matter what you’re buying. You could be buying something off the rack at a discount store or you can be putting on haute couture of some famous designer. And they all can be tweaked and can look better.”

“It’s years of understanding that maybe I’m a little short-waisted, or maybe I’m long-waisted, or maybe I need a rise to be a little longer to bring your attention to my waist, my hips, whatever. The beauty of fitting these varied models is you watch these women of all sizes be able to not at all jeopardize their aesthetic or their look or line because it fits. It’s been such a revelation for me.”

Shields is hoping for the collection be a success in order for her to become even more involved in the fashion world.

Bernadine Morris, veteran fashion observer, dies at 92

Bernadine Morris, the women who demystified women’s fashion for over decades as a New York Times critic, passed away on Jan. 12 in the Bronx. Morris was 92 years old at the time of her passing.

Her death occurred at a nursing home and was confirmed by her daughter, Cara Michelle Morris.

Bernadine Morris began her career at the trade newspaper Women’s Wear Daily. She switched to The New York Times on her 38th birthday when she answered a help-wanted advertisement in the newspaper for a fashion reporter. Some 4,000 bylines later, Morris retired as the newspaper’s chief fashion writer in 1996.

Morris won the Medal of the City of Paris in 1985 and an award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America in 1987. She was also quoted in Nicholas Coleridge’s “The Fashion Conspiracy” (1988):

“The theater critic of The New York Times I do believe wields power, but not the fashion editor. It’s too diffuse. The most I can do, if I’m really enthusiastic, is get a buyer to go see the collection.”

Morris was one of the greatest when it came to criticizing womenswear and fashion in general. Her legacy will continue to make an impact on future designers and writers alike.

Russian fashion designer gets backlash for privately using n-word

This year at Paris Fashion Week, Russian-born influencer Miroslava Duma posted a photo of a note from fashion designer Ulyana Surgeenko.

An excerpt of the note read, “To my n—-s in Paris,” which Duma posted on Snapchat. Sergeenko then sent out an apology on her Instagram:

“I woke up this morning with my phone full of insulting messages, ‘you deserve the worst in your life,’ ‘die white trash,’ and so on,” Sergeenko wrote. “I was born in a small town in East Kazakhstan, my daughter is half-Armenian, I have never divided people on white or Black. Kanye West is one of my favorite musicians, and NP is one of my most favorite songs. And yes, we call each other the N-word sometimes when we want to believe we are just as cool as the guys who sing it. I am deeply sorry to anyone I may have offended. Mira is a dear friend and even the fact that she so naively posted my private card to her on her social means that we meant nothing wrong and didn’t realize the consequences. I have certainly learned my lesson and I am grateful for it. There is enough anger in the world out there, please, can we stop it here? [heart emoji]”

The news shows ignorance among the fashion industry, according to Matthew Schneier, a New York Times reporter. It is “quite possibly the worst apology for casual racism.”

“I actually prefer that these people air their unvarnished feelings, so the world will know,” Schneier added on Twitter. “But I am always surprised that they continue to pay tens of thousands of dollars a month to high-end PR firms who can’t save them from themselves before, during or after these idiocies.”

Tom Ford to show menswear at New York Fashion Week

Tom Ford will be taking the final spot for menswear in the New York Fashion Week calendar on Feb. 6 with a runway show. It will start at 8 p.m. at the Park Avenue Armory, which will immediately follow Joseph Abboud at 7 p.m.

Although Ford has shown menswear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his menswear collection exclusively at this event. His last New York show was back in September 2017 when he started New York Fashion Week with a women’s show at the Armory. His Spring 2018 menswear line was shown in Milan.

The Council of Fashion Designers of America decided last month to push the dates of the New York Fashion Week Men’s to Feb. 5 through Feb. 7, which then allows the women’s calendar to precede immediately afterward. This new schedule will create one big 10-day calendar.

The addition of Ford to the mix gives the fashion event a boost to the men’s portion, which it desperately needed. So far, the lineups have been filled with emerging labels but not so many established brands. The big names this season will be Raf Simons, Abboud, Perry Ellis and Hugo Boss.

Alexander Wang is leaving New York Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week has lost longtime designer Alexander Wang. Starting this summer, he is moving his shows from the February and September schedules and place them in June and December. The move is likely to place his designs closer to pre-collection season.

According the company’s announcement, the move “is widely considered to be a transformative solution for the global industry, breaking out of the conventional fashion calendar.” The move also includes combining the pre-collection and main collections into one single collection, thus dividing the label’s products into monthly drops.

In terms of what the new change affects, the new schedule will shorten the time for purchases to four months after the show rather than the former span of six months. This also means that there will not be any ready-to-wear shows from Alexander Wang anytime soon.

The move will also shrink New York Fashion Week, which will likely affect a major portion of local industries such as hotels, restaurants, transportation and florists.

Wang will be the fifth New York designer of his generation to part ways with the official NYFW schedule.

Public School drops out of New York Fashion Week

During the recent changes made to the New York Fashion Week’s official schedule, Public School designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow have announced they will skip showcasing their new Fall 2018 collection in February. The designer duo has made the decision to drop out and have already made plans to launch a “new direct-to-consumer concept” this upcoming spring.

This past year, Osborne and Chow have been keeping the entire fashion world full of excitement with their creative and dazzling fashion week. Back in April of 2016, they had a fashion show for Public School collection off-calendar, showing close to menswear and pre-collection schedules in December and June. Public School also combined their men’s and women’s and made a co-ed show for a number of collections.

“The company will focus on refining its own product assortment, delivery cadence and restructuring the organization, including making new hires,” said a spokesperson for the brand in an official statement for Fashionista.

This isn’t the first time Osborne and Chow have thought about new ways to approach fashion weeks as more and more New York brands struggle to find a new way to increase their consumer-facing productions.

Patrik Ervell talks working for Vince

Patrik Ervell, who constantly portrays a true New York designer, has recently moved to Los Angeles. This past September Ervell was announced as the new men’s designer for Vince, the Los Angeles based brand most famously known for its sweaters. Vince moved to Los Angeles to add to the list of growing New Yorkers moving out west to chase bigger opportunities. Ervell is tasked to elevate a brand who isn’t in danger of dropping down a tier, but a brand who has struggled in recent years to find an identity.

GQ caught up with the experienced designer in a recent interview to talk about his new job and being a New Yorker in the city of angels.

“How does it feel being in L.A.?”

“It feels great. I’ve always had a craving for L.A., like almost anyone who lives in New York.”

“Are you still doing your own line?”

“I mean, I’m not doing seasonal collections. I’m definitely not doing shows. I think it exists as a kind of project, which for now is TBD.”

“how did working at Vince happen?”

“The conversation started a while ago. Over a year ago—a year and a half ago, even. I always liked the idea of Vince and its most basic building blocks. They made a lot of sense to me. I felt like the men’s at Vince was, I don’t want to use the word blank slate, but kind of a blank slate. There are so many ways for me to engage with those building blocks and to build on top of it, and turn it into something really dynamic and exciting.”

“What will your Vince look like?”

“What we’re honing in on it. What it will be about going forward is a kind of high classic California aesthetic. It’s the most essential, most elevated version of that aesthetic.”

“Any specifics?”

“There’s a certain ease of dressing in California. The codes of menswear that are still important in the old world, meaning New York and Europe, are abandoned there. That’s always been an important idea for me and the way I design clothes. I’ve always talked about the captains of industry. In California where I grew up, no one was wearing a suit. It’s not like there’s anything wrong with wearing a suit. A suit is a beautiful thing. [But in California, there’s] not a formality built around those old codes. Those things are abandoned, and you can develop new codes and new uniforms. That’s really exciting.”

“Have you gained some distance and perspective from the rest of the fashion world since you got there?”

“Yes, absolutely. I think it’s never felt more like the future. Since World War II onward, it’s had these moments when it was like Wow, look what’s happening in California, but I think, now more than ever, the future is being created in California. I felt that way in college, when I was at Berkeley in the late ‘90s, and what was happening in San Francisco was the invention of the internet. I never felt like California was a peripheral place. I felt like it was the center of the world.”

 

“what is the most iconic Vince piece?”

“It’s sweaters. It’s knitwear. I think what you’ll see in Fall are some kind of entirely new, almost virtuoso versions of this incredibly beautiful knitwear.”

store highlight / mercer nyc

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Music Spotlight Highlight: Chris Stylez, R&B Sensation

How do you describe the future of R&B music, and music in general, in just two words? That is easy: Chris Stylez. A native of Ottawa, but based out of New York City, Chris Stylez is a name you will soon become very familiar with, if you haven’t already, that is.

Rocketing up the ranks as a rare triple threat talent – a singer/songwriter/producer – Chris Stylez made his break by becoming a Vine superstar, collecting over 50 million loops of his songs through the popular service. He has quickly found himself touring around the world based on the fruits of his hard work and dedication.

But Chris Stylez hasn’t let his success affect him, he manages to stay humble in the face of mainstream popularity:

“I’m thankful everyday to be able to do this [music] full-time, I have friends who have struggled to maintain through the high’s and low’s of this music business, so for that, I stay humble and appreciative day after day, that I’m still here.”

Chris Stylez

When asked about how he approaches songwriting and music videos in regards to his song, “Who Is” (linked below), Chris Styles had the following to say:

“To appreciate this record is to open yourself up to uncomfortable conversation, I wanted to keep the minimalistic approach of the music consistent in the visuals. This is about more than the physical aspect of sex; it’s about the complex emotions involved.”

For those interested in hearing more from Chris Stylez, his EP can be found here, and you can connect with him through Facebook and Twitter.

September Guide for a New York Bag

Having a style that falls in the unisex category, and a wardrobe that could style a man perfectly, I will attempt to minimize the feminine direction of the article and place importance on objects needed by both genders.
Now please keep in mind that is an open discussion and having not lived in New York during September, I will need your experienced expertise as well. I have done enough research, random street conversations and major summer experiences to allow me to list essentials that I am positive you will nod your head with approval.

The number one essential is, the “Umbrella” because no you can’t stand under anyone’s umbrella, since half the people will be running to escape the rain. Always have on in your bag, New York is the moodiest when it comes to weather and you will never now when the emotional feeling hits and it starts to cry.

Via Flickr/Gwenael Piaser
Via Flickr Gwenael Piaser

Number two goes to “Band-aids”; you are probably staring at a blister this very moment and agreeing “So True!” New Yorkers are fortunate to have the choice to walk anywhere and even if you don’t like walking at one point you have to walk. So with that, I am sure each person reading this has had the worse blister experience and it’s painful I know.

Via Flickr/sarawestermark
Via Flickr sarawestermark

Falling in third place, the “Portable Cell phone Charger”. The sad part is, not many people know it exists, but the happy part it does. Do yourself a favor and head to the nearest Duane Reade and buy yourself one.

Via Halo2Cloud
Via Halo2Cloud

Number four, “Cash”. If you are a brunch person, happy hour person, pizza person or simply a person, always carry cash with you. Most spots in New York have ATMs that will charge you an extra fee and cause an extra hassle.

Via Flickr/Tax Credits
Via Flickr Tax Credits

And for the finale, “Bottle of Water” if you ever get stuck on a subway for 30 minutes you will thank me.
Awaiting your feedback.

Via Poland Spring
Via Poland Spring

 

Photo By Alice